Vaupes Archives - Sula Travel Agency

Are There Anacondas in Colombia? Yes, and You Can Visit Them!

Posted on 14/05/202103/06/2021 by Frank59872

Are there anacondas in Colombia? Yes! The Anaconda, this giant reptile that is part of the imaginary terror of children and adults, and that have been present, not only in your bad dreams but also in Hollywood and Disney movies live in Colombia. Find here when and where to go to see the Anaconda in Colombia.

The Anaconda

The famous anaconda is a type of constrictor snake of the same lineage as the boas, and it is the heaviest of them all. It is endemic to the rivers of the South American tropics, usually found in the Amazon and Orinoco basins.

Green anaconda (*Eunectes murinus*), also known as common anaconda or common water boa.

Although the name is applied to a group of snakes, it is often used to refer to the common or green anaconda (Eunectes murinus), which is the largest snake in the world by weight, and the second-longest, after the reticulated python (Malayopython reticulatus), an endangered Asian snake.

One of the differential characteristics of the Anaconda, when compared to other snakes, is that they have 3 thickened scales on each side of its snout. Additionally, Anacondas find comfort on trees or still water ponds with fast currents, taking advantage of their agile swimming abilities.

13 Facts About Anacondas that you Don’t Want to Miss

Anacondas eyes and nostrils are elevated since they usually remain submerged underwater for long periods of time.
Their olfactory receptors are located on the tongue.
The mating season is usually between April and May. Females send signals and wait patiently until males arrive at her location. The number of males that may arrive could add up to 12 individuals which wrap themselves around the female creating the well-known “breeding balls”.
The gestation period takes 6 to 7 months, and the offsprings are born 60 to 70 cms long. The average number of hatchlings per female is 30 per mating season.
Anaconda hatchlings can survive without the mother’s protection, as they are born with innate hunting and self-defense instincts.
Being carnivorous, their diet is very varied.
Anacondas usually silently wait for their prey submerged on the river without being detected.
Anacondas are venomless snakes. Therefore, their mode of hunting is constriction, which is necessary to suffocate the prey before swallowing it.
The largest anaconda ever officially recorded was a female hunted in Brazil in 1960, which measured 8.45 m in length, and weighing 227 kg.
Anacondas swallow their prey completely thanks to elastic ligaments and joints in their snout.
They have two rows of teeth pointing backward, which move independently in order to bite their prey.
Digestion time can take more than 7 days depending on the size of the prey.
After eating a big pray Anacondas may have no need to eat for weeks or even months.

Myths and Legends Around the Anaconda

The native communities of the Amazon region of Colombia believe that a great ancestral anaconda penetrated the universe/house, through the water gate and ascended the Negro and Vaupés rivers carrying within its body the ancestors of all mankind.

Throughout his journey ancestors turned into humans. This great anaconda finally reached the “Ipanore waterfall”, formed by the flow of the Jirijirimo River, which means “the bed of the anaconda” in native dialects.

Anacondas are Endangered Species

Although there is no information on the conservation status of Anacondas, there are threats that are greatly reducing their populations. Threats to anacondas are:

Hunting, to keep them as pets or for their skin used as decoration. It is also hunted for religious and medicinal reasons., since it is believed to cure rheumatism and asthma, among other diseases.
Fear, derived from people’s belief that anacondas are dangerous.
Habitat loss.
Contamination.

Where to Find Anacondas in South America

Anacondas are widely distributed in South America and can be found in:

Colombia
Brazil
Venezuela
Ecuador
Bolivia
Peru
Guyana
French Guyana
Trinidad and Tobago
Paraguay

How Many Species of Anacondas are?

Among the genera Eunectes, there are three more species besides the famous Green Anaconda (Eunectes murinus), which is the species with the greatest presence in the South American continent, especially in Venezuela, Brazil, and Colombia. The other anaconda species are:

Bolivian Anaconda (Eunectes beniensis)

It is the most recently defined species, inhabiting Bolivia. In particular, in the provinces of Beni and Pando.

Yellow Anaconda (Eunectes notaues)

Also known as Paraguaya, it is the smallest species of anacondas. They are usually present in the Paraguay river, also, they are distributed from the Pantanal region in Bolivia, the west of Brazil to the northeast of Argentina.

Dark-spotted Anaconda (Eunectes deschauenseei)

Also known as Schauenseee, due to the expansion of agriculture in the savannahs where it lives, this species is the most endangered.

Where to See Anacondas in Colombia

The geographical distribution of the Anaconda in Colombia is recorded in the following departments: Putumayo, Amazonas, Vaupés, Guaviare, Guainía, Meta, Vichada, and Casanare.

Despite the wide range of Anacondas in Colombia, it is only possible to observe them safely and ecologically by protecting their natural environment.

Amazonas

Amacayacu National Natural Park, Puerto Nariño, Amazonas

Located southeast of Colombia, this protected area is responsible for the protection and conservation of all local fauna and flora. It is currently closed but indigenous communities of Mocagua and San Martin offer guided ecotourism activities in the area.

Where to stay

La ceiba, Amazonas – Puerto Nariño
Cabañas Maikü Selva – Puerto Nariño

Leticia, Amazonas

It is the capital of the department of Amazonas, and an amazing place to experience living in a city in the middle of the jungle. Tours that include visiting native communities are available.

Where to stay

Vaupes

Visit our entry Jirijirimo Waterfall and the Anaconda Trail in Vaupes, Amazon Region, Colombia, to find more information.

Casanare

Casanare is another beautiful department, located in the eastern plains, where you can find anacondas in Colombia.

Hato La Aurora

Hato La Aurora offers the best safari experience in Colombia. Besides anaconda, you will find capybaras, white-tailed deer, spectacled caimans, wild horses, cattle, iguanas, and birds. Jaguars and cougars also inhabit the reserve, but they are difficult to spot.

Where to stay

The reserve has an eco-lodge called Juan Solito that offers accommodation in rooms, cabins, or hammocks.

Best Time to Visit the Anacondas in Colombia

In the Amazon region, it usually rains every month; the least rainy month is July. In Vaupés, the best season is the dry season which goes from November to April. Finally, in Casanare, the best season is also the dry season, which is from November to April.

Recommendations for your visit

Take yellow fever and tetanus vaccine shots before arrival.
Mosquito repellent is highly recommended.
Bring rubber boots, a raincoat, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen.
Leave no trace.
Carry valid identity documents and health insurance.
If you take specific medications, take them with you.

If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!

References

National Geographic
Panda.org NGO
Rainforest-alliance.org NGO

About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Discover the gateway to the Colombian Amazon, the city of Mitú on the banks of the Vaupes River

Posted on 14/04/202114/04/2021 by Frank59872

Mitú, the capital of the department of Vaupés, located between 50 to 120 minutes by plane from Bogotá, is the ideal destination to immerse yourself in the depths of the jungle, where birds, nature, and ancestral culture allow you to leave aside the daily routine of modern life.

This is a unique destination, where the distance and the little communication with the rest of the country, has made it possible to maintain a large part of the culture and nature of the region.

The Ethnic Richness of Mitu

About 70% of the territory has been declared as an indigenous reserve, and for this reason, visitors and access must have the permission of the indigenous leaders.

Mitú has a population that is mostly part of ancestral indigenous tribes such as the Tukano, Guananos, Yurutíes, Cubeos, Piratapuyos, Desanos, and many others. There are 26 communities in total, and about 29 dialects, which represents the amazing ethnic richness in this region of Colombia.

The Vaupes River is the connector of these communities. People move in boats and canoes transporting local people, agricultural products, merchandise, and tourists.

Get to know Mitú

It is a simple and small city, located on the banks of the Vaupés River, surrounded by freshwater streams and the thick Amazon jungle.

When you arrive in the city, you can stroll through the main square Parque Santander, where you will find the Governor’s Office, the María Inmaculada Cathedral and the monument to the “Guio”, which pays homage to the origin of the indigenous peoples who live there. Guio means anaconda.

In this square, it is common to find food, handicrafts, and the typical gastronomic offer of the region.

The Fabio Alberto Leon Bentley Airport is the main gateway for travelers arriving to discover the territory. The Satena airline is the only one with flights to Mitu from Bogota or Villavicencio.

Satena airline offers flight to Mitu from Bogota and Villavicencio.

Places to Enjoy in Mitu

The trip to Mitú is ideal if you like bird watching. In Vaupes you will find more than 570 bird species, which offer a unique spectacle. Local guides specialized in the subject will give you all the information about the birds that you can find in the city.

Find more information about birding in Vaupes in our entry Vaupes, a Must to Visit Birding Destination in the Colombian Amazon.

Birdwatching at the Colombian Amazon, Mitú, Vaupés

It is also possible to walk along special trails outside the city center to enjoy a wide variety of species, not only birds but also flora and different types of animals, always accompanied by local guides.

To visit these places, you will have to access the territory of the communities, and you can only do so if you have permission from the leader of the community and if you are accompanied by a local guide.

The Malecon

The Malecon has a pedestrian walkway that runs one kilometer along the Vaupes River. It has small squares and kiosks adorned with gardens of local vegetation, where many birds arrive.

The Food Market and Port

This is a very rustic square, located next to the river where you can find typical food of the region prepared by the hands of indigenous women in wood and charcoal stoves. Here you can enjoy traditional dishes for very cheap prices.

There are about 15 food stalls where you can find “borugo en caldo”, “lapa”, fish, cassava, manioc, among other foods provided by the jungle. The natives take advantage of the permitted hunting seasons to obtain the animals to eat.

Around this place, indigenous gather to offer many kinds of products. Every Friday, people from different communities arrive in the place, bringing their products to sell in the market. It is possible to find cassava flour, casabe, pichuna grapes, quinapira, copoazu, fish, and reptiles that are used as food.

Hiking and River Trips in Vaupes

There are trails for hiking and river trips that will take you to the indigenous communities, open to tourists with their ancestral vision of the birds and other animals of the region.

Hiking Routes Around Mitu

The ecological walks established around the city have as a special destination different high hills, or tepuis, from where we suggest you to observe the jungle that expands from and towards the river.

Mituseño Urania

Five kilometers from the city you can visit the Mituseño Urania community. It is a small village with two important sacred places: the chair of the god Cubay and the hill of Urania.

The Odocabeba (Urania) Hill, is a rocky outcrop 200 meters high, where you will observe the jungle, and share the day with the Cubeo indigenous people, owner of this beautiful viewpoint of the jungle.

You will also visit the territory of the Cubeo’s god Cubay, and a rock traditionally called the “Silla de Cubay” from where, according to legend, the deity observes the jungle.

Once you reach the top, you will find a jungle landscape crossed by the waters of the Vaupes river that carries small boats with goods and tourists in the middle of the jungle.

Ceima Cachivera

6 kilometers from Mitú is the Ceima Cachivera community. This community opened to visitors following the motivation of its captain Sergio Gutierrez, which is a professional tourist guide formed at SENA, the national institute of learning.

Sergio cordially welcomes visitors who want to get to know the treasures of the jungle. After an introduction about the characteristics of the territory and the community, he leads the expeditions that last an average of two hours.

There are different stops during the hike, the first one is the raudal of Cachivera Tucunare, a waterfall. Then you will continue towards a series of caves and rocky formations, sacred for the Cubeos, such as the Tiger Cave or the Toad Cave, where the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock is usually observed.

Finally, there is Cerro Flecha, a hill with a spectacular 360 view of the jungle. It is also a sacred place for the Cubeos, since this hill was the place from which its god Cubay prayed over the region.

Cerro Guacamayas

Cerro Guacamayas is another jungle viewpoint. To reach its summit you must take a path through swamps and through the Chagras, or small spaces for the sustenance of the indigenous communities, where they plant and establish a series of relationships with the land.

As the trail is rough, you should bring along food and drinks, swamp boots, long-sleeved shirts, and insect repellent. The entire route is flat until you reach the hill, a gigantic rock that encloses an ecosystem in which characteristics shrubs and vegetation grow.

Inselberg, Cerro Guacamaya, Mitú, Vaupés

You may climb up the rock with the help of a harness, or if you feel confident, you can reach it by your own. Once you reach the top you will find the entire Amazon rainforest at your feet.

Amazon forest – Cerro Guacamaya – Mitú, Vaupés

Once you descend from the viewpoint, you will reach the Caño Sangre, a natural “jacuzzi” of terracotta color, fruit of the vegetation that grows at the bottom of the pipe.

River Trips

Before continue, I must tell you that for the indigenous people, the Vaupes River is sacred. For them, under the waters of the river resides the world of the gods. It is a place where the ancestral cycle of the anaconda takes place.

The anaconda gives identity to the community, and plays a central role in their mythology and genesis of their people. We recommend you to watch the documentary El Sendero de la Anaconda to better understand the sacred relationship that the indigenous people established with the river. It is available on Netflix.

You can visit several streams and pipes that connect with the Vaupes River. Among them, one of the closest is the Raudal Tatu Chachivera, a ravine feared for its strength.

It is important to be accompanied by a local guide who knows very well how to overcome these ravines. Generally, the indigenous people of the Trubon community are in charge of guiding you through this part of the Vaupes River.

Another place, very close to Mitu, is the Cucura bathing place, where the huge stones form natural pools.

Learning about different cultures

The most interesting thing about Mitú is that it is possible to share with some communities their traditions, observe their costumes and learn about their customs. You will be received in a Maloca, in the famous festivities of Yuruparí, where you will be invited along with the children to participate in a traditional dance.

Jerico Community

Here you can interact with the culture and tradition of the Tatuyo people. This community is located two hours from Mitu. There you will be welcomed by the wise man of this community called Agustin Munoz.

The main attraction is the colorful Maloca of the community. There you will enjoy an opiparous banquet prepared in the traditional way with typical foods such as cassava, fish muquiado, fish with caruru, and copoazu and azai juices. Everyone can help themselves to the food they want.

Traditional food served in handmade dishes, Mitu, Vaupes, Colombia

Afterwards there will be a protection ritual, where with a reddish powder called carayuru, the women will paint your face with a set of lines on your forehead and cheeks.

Protection Ritual, Mitu, Vaupes, Colombia

Mambe is also offered to the attendees. It is a powder obtained by toasting, grinding, and sifting the coca leaf, which is mixed with ashes from a cecropia tree. Don Agustin will explain to you the benefits of consuming this preparation.

Beware that the Mambe is a stimulant that should only be chewed, so don’t eat it!

Souvenirs

The handicrafts of Vaupes are beautiful. The indigenous people capture their culture and tradition in these unique handicrafts. You can find clay pots polished with river stones, plates, blue clay vessels with traditional engravings, trays, and baskets handwoven with vegetable fibers, vases, etc. All worked in fibers such as cumare or guarumo, clay and wood.

Indigenous jewerly from Mitu, Vaupes, Colombia

These handicrafts greatly represent the Colombian Amazon and are a source of pride for the inhabitants of Vaupes.

Recommendations for your visit

Take yellow fever and tetanus vaccines before arrival.
Do not forget the mosquito repellent, it is highly recommended.
Rubber boots, raincoat, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen.
Leave no trace.

If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!

References

Colombia Travel
SINCHI – Institute of Scientific Reseach of the Amazon.
Satena

About the author

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Vaupes, a Must to Visit Birding Destination in the Colombian Amazon

Posted on 13/04/202114/04/2021 by Frank59872

Vaupés, with its capital Mitú, is the gateway to the Amazonian trapezoid in Colombia. Its rich biodiversity is evident everywhere, and it is a must to visit birdwatching destinations in Colombia.

This wealth is not only biological, in Vaupés we have a wide diversity of indigenous cultures represented in 26 ethnic groups that share traditional knowledge about the management of the forest, and about their culture.

Miguel Portura, one of the best birding guides in Vaupes.

Vaupés has more than 570 bird species. Most of the species are widely distributed in the Amazon, but there are several subspecies associated with the Guyanese shield. The avifauna of this region is very special, which fully justifies its protection and study.

Birdwatching tourism has grown in the region as a good strategy for bird conservation and sustainability. Thanks to the organized work of indigenous communities in conjunction with SENA, the national learning institute, many locals found profit on this business.

In 2018, the local community, SENA, and the ACO organized the most important ornithological meeting in Colombia, the National Meeting of Ornithology (ENO), making its successful opening as a well-organized birdwatching destination.

Today, Vaupes has a very good supply of local guides prepared to receive all visitors. They know the stories about the origin of the birds, their songs, their habitat, their signs, and the important role that their plumages play in the culture.

The great diversity of indigenous cultures, and their oral and sung tradition about birds make Mitú the ideal place to marvel at the great cultural and natural richness of our country. It is a unique destination in Colombia for Ethno-Ornithology. In addition, Vaupes is a territory of peace, recovering as a post-conflict destination.

Where is Vaupes?

The department of Vaupés is located in the southeast of Colombia, in the region of the Amazon known as the Guiana Shield. This region covers an extensive area of northern South America.

Find out more about the Guiana Shield in our entry Why Chiribiquete is called the Sistine Chapel of Colombia?

In Vaupes you will find one of the least populated, best conserved, and most heterogeneous regions in the world. There the Guiana and Amazonia ecosystems converge, and you will find in one place the famous tepuis of the Guiana shield, and the dry land forests, whitewater, and blackwater flooded forests, largest patches of white sand forests and savannas of the Amazon.

How to get to Vaupes

It can be reached by air, the commercial passenger company SATENA has direct flights of approximately 50 minutes.

Bear in mind that flights are limited, and they only depart on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays from Bogota; and, Thursdays and Saturdays from Villavicencio.

There are also other companies that may eventually, make passenger charter flights.

Best time to visit

The best time to go for a birdwatching trip to Vaupes is after the rainy season, specially the months between November to April.

Birds of Vaupes

Given the great diversity of ecosystems in Vaupes, it is possible to find a great variety of birds. The checklist of the department of Vaupés includes 579 species distributed in 360 genera, 63 families, and 24 orders.

You can download a very complete checklist of the birds of Vaupes at the SINCHI institute website.

Highlighted birds

Discover near-endemic birds such as Chestnut-crested Antbird (Rhegmatorhina cristata) and Orinoco Piculet (Picumnus pumilus), and endangered birds such as Crestless curassow (Mitu tomentosum), and Grey-winged trumpeter (Psophia crepitans).

Among the birds found only in the department are Brown-banded Puffbird (Notharchus ordii), Tawny-tufted toucanet (Selenidera nattereri), Yellow-throated Antwren (Myrmotherula ambigua), among others.

Other interesting birds you can find are:

Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin
Screaming Piha
Citron-bellied Attila
Tawny-tufted Toucanet
Brown-banded Puffbird
Azure-naped Jay
Pompadour Cotinga
Fiery Topaz
White-plumed Antbird
Black Bushbird
White-fronted Nunbird
Spotted Puffbird
White-plumed Antbird

Birding Routes in Vaupes

All birding routes are immersed in the indigenous communities surrounding the capital of Vaupés. You need permission to visit them, and also you must be accompanied by a local guide. But don’t worry, if you plan your trip ahead before your arrival everything will be ready.

Mituseño – Urania

This indigenous settlement belongs mostly to the Kubeo (Pamiwa) ethnic group and is located on the banks of the Vaupés river to the northeast of Vaupés. There are rock formations and Varzeas that are flood plains of the Vaupés River.

Golden-headed Mankin (*Ceratopipra erythrocephala*), Mitu, Vaupes, Colombia

Highlights

Swallow-winged Puffbird
Bronzy Jacamar
Blue-crowned Manakin
White-crowned Manakin
Amazonian Umbrellabird
Azure-naped Jay

Mitu Cachivera

This community is located just five minutes from the town of Mitú, on the banks of the Vaupés River. This place offers about four trails that include white-sand forests, rivers with red water, and rocky outcrops.

Highlights

Fiery Topaz
Pavonine Quetzal
Black-tailed Trogon
Amazonian Trogon
Blue-crowned Trogon
Black-throated Trogon
Brown-banded Puffbird
Rusty-breasted Nunlet

Cerrito Verde

This birding spot is located 45 minutes from the urban center of Mitu, it has well-preserved mature terra-firme forests. It has a mosaic of landscapes ranging from primary forests to savannas and rocky outcrops within the Amazon jungle.

Red-fan Parrot (*Deroptyus accipitrinus*), Mitú, Vaupés

Highlights

Guianan Cock-of-the-rock
Black-eared Fairy
Pavonine Quetzal
Amazonian Trogon
Tawny-tufted Toucanet
Maroon-tailed Parakeet
Chestnut-crested Antbird

Guianan Cock-of-the-rock (*Rupicola rupicola*), Mitú, Vaupés

La Libertad

This indigenous settlement is located across the Vaupés River from the town of Mitú. You will find trails of white sands, flooded forests, and dry land. In one of the trails, you will have to take a canoe at some point to continue.

Birdwatching at the Amazon Forest, Mitú, Vaupés, Colombia

Highlights

Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
White-bearded Hermit
Black-throated Hermit
Swallow-winged Puffbird
Orange-cheeked Parrot
Yellow-crowned Parrot
White-crowned Manakin
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Amazonian Umbrellabird

Amazonian Umbrellabird (*Cephalopterus ornatus*), La libertad, Mitú, Vaupés

Santa Marta – Puerto Golondrina

It is located 12 kilometers downriver from the governor’s port on the Vaupés River and entering through the Cuduyarí River. This is the land of the community of Kubeos. Its main trail connects with the community of Puerto Golondrina. It has terra-firme forest and white sands.

Highlights

Straight-billed Hermit
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Ivory-billed Aracari
Pompadour Cotinga
Amazonian Tyrannulet
Amazonian Grosbeak
Coraya Wren

White-bearded Manakin – *Manacus manacus* – Cerro Guacamaya, Mitú, Vaupés

Pueblo Nuevo

Located on kilometer 20, this community has well-preserved mature terra firme forests and a mosaic of landscapes that range from mosaic of landscapes ranging from primary forests to savannas and rocky outcrops.

Swallow-winged Puffbird (*Chelidoptera tenebrosa*), Mitú, Vaupés, Colombia

Highlights

Gilded Barbet
Tawny-tufted Toucanet
Ringed Antpipit
Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet
Chestnut-crested Antbird
Amazonian Scrub-Flycatcher

Santa Cruz

Located 32 kilometers from the urban center, the community is located past the Vaupés River and the trail is near the Vaupés Micro Hydroelectric Plant MCH. This site is of great cultural interest because it is the site of the great cachivera of Iparare, where most of the cultures of Vaupés were born.

It has well-preserved terra firme forests and rocky elevations where the flora and fauna of the place converge such as quetzals, trogons, and antbirds.

Highlights

Opal-crowned Tanager
White-fronted Nunbird
Black Bushbird
Musician Wren
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin

Vaupés Micro Hydroelectric Plant MCH ©laotraopinion.net

Recommendations for your visit

Take yellow fever and tetanus vaccines before arrival.
Do not forget the mosquito repellent, it is highly recommended.
Rubber boots, raincoat, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen.
Leave no trace.

If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!

References

Colombia Travel
Stiles, F. G. : La avifauna de la parte media del río Apaporis, departamentos de Vaupés y Amazonas, Colombia. Rev. Acad. Colomb. Cienc. 34 (132): 381-390, 2010. ISSN 0370-3908.
SINCHI – Institute of Scientific Reseach of the Amazon.
Etno-birding Vaupes.

About the author

Sara Colmenares

Jirijirimo Waterfall and the Anaconda Trail in Vaupes, Amazon Region, Colombia

Posted on 08/04/2021 by Frank59872

The Raudal de Jirijirimo (or Jirijirimo waterfall) is a regional nature reserve between the limits of the amazonian departments of Vaupes and Amazonas in Colombia. It is located in the middle-lower course of the Apaporis river.

The reserve is named after the waterfall that is located there, the Jirijirimo, which is one of the most beautiful and impressive in Colombia.

The Apaporis River: The Anconda Trail

The Apaporis River rises in Mesa de Pardos, in the municipality of La Macarena, department of Meta. It results from the union of the Tunia and Ajajú rivers, and has a length of 1,200 kilometers.

This river serves as the northeastern limit of the department of Caquetá with the department of Guaviare. It is of black water and has a general NW – SE direction throughout its course.

In the upper part of its course it serves as a natural boundary between the departments of Caquetá and Vaupés.

It bathes the lands of Caquetá, Guaviare, Vaupés and Amazonas and serves as Colombia’s border with Brazil. It is little used for navigation because of its streams, among which is the Jirijirimo.

Raudal de Jirijirimo (or Jirijirimo Waterfall)

Jirijirimo is a waterfall in the form of gigantic steps, and it is about 100 meters wide and almost 100 meters high.

The word “Jirijirimo” is an indigenous word that means “Bed of the guio”. The guio is an indigenous word to call the Anaconda. They are aquatic boas, which can measure up to 10 meters and feed on large animals. Their scientific name is: “Eunectes“. The Anacondas are often found in this place.

The Apaporis River at this point reaches a width of 100 meters. It splits in two by surrounding an island in the middle of the river. Just there, the Raudal de Jirijirimo (Jirijirimo Waterfall) begins. There, the river falls furiously through a rocky and deep gorge. It is a route of impressive waterfalls and rapids.

It is a sacred place of the Macuna, Tanimuka, Letuama, Cabiyari, Barazano, Yujup Maku and Yauna peoples of the Apaporis, who are spread out in about twenty communities along the river.

The spiritual practices of the indigenous people and their management of the territory have made this region one of the best preserved natural destinations in Colombia.

The river closes at about 40 meters beyond, and rushes between rocky walls with impressive force. Then, it runs for several kilometers until it reaches a tunnel where it backwaters.

The Apaporis Tunnel

Either because the river found it, or because the river itself carved it, the fact is that, after the Jirijirimo, the Apaporis ends in a tunnel about 60 meters high, 20 meters long and 10 meters wide.

It is the mythical tunnel of the Apaporis, which is also sacred to the indigenous people of the region and the subject of many legends.

It is an impressive place due to the scene formed by the black rocks, the vegetation, and the light crossing the tunnel. The river, which before rushing down the waterfall was several hundred meters wide, is now reduced to a mere 10 meters and therefore the depth is incalculable.

Local people affirm that the depth of the Apaporis is several tens of meters inside the tunnel.

Morroco Mountain Range

Near the raudal flows the black water river called Cananari. In the background, the Morroco mountain range frames the landscape of the river. This mountain extends for 5 km, and reaches a height of 500 meters above sea level.

The Morroco Range breaks the Apaporis River to form the Jirijirimo waterfall, a few kilometers from the mouth of the Cananari River.

You can hike to the top of the Morroco mountain range. From the top, it is possible to observe the landscape of the raudal of Jirijirimo, the Apaporis river and the jungle in all its splendor and extension.

There are many macaws in Morroco, and these have become emblematic birds of the destination.

Expeditions to the Jirijirimo

Since the late 19th century, Jirijirimo has been admired by travelers, scientists and tourists. One of its most famous visitors was the British botanist Richard Evan Schultes, in the 1940s. And most recently, the botanist Wade Davis, who made a documentary, along with Martin von Hildebrand.

In the documentary they follow the steps of Schultes through the jungles and rivers of the Colombian Amazon. The documented journey is called El Sendero de la Anaconda, which is available on Netflix.

El Sendero de la Anaconda – Trailer from Laberinto Producciones on Vimeo.

In the last Colombia Bio expedition, which results were presented in July 2019, scientists recorded around 2,335 species of flora and fauna, and 228 of which were new records for the country.

In the reserve is possible to observe the exotic Amazonian fauna. It is perfect to find anacondas, macaws, deers and large mammals such as Amazonian tapirs.

How to get to Jirijirimo

To get there you will have to take a plane from Bogota to Mitu, the capital of Vaupes. From there, you have to take another plane to the region where the raudal is located. The flight covers 179 km from Mitú to the municipality of Taraira.

You can also arrive by boat from the municipality of Pacoa in the Amazon. The trip lasts 4 hours.

Weather at Jirijirimo

The climate in the region is warm and humid, with a temperature between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius (+/- 83 F).

Best time to visit Jirijirimo

The best time to visit this place is between November and January, after the rainy season. Before is not recommended since it can be very dangerous, and the landscape get lost below the strong waters.

This destination is part of the deep Colombia, and it is a place that recently opened its doors to tourism. For this reason, and for being in the middle of indigenous settlements, the environment is preserved unaltered.

Sometimes, visits are restricted or closed, so it is important you get informed about that in advance.

Do not expect to find hotels, or a great infrastructure. You will have to stay in the nearby towns to spend the night, or you can also camp in the places allowed by the indigenous community.

The Cabiyari indigenous people inhabits these area of the reserve. They will be your guides, and you will learn a lot about their customs and traditions.

Recommendations for your visit

Take yellow fever and tetanus vaccines before arrival.
Do not forget the mosquito repellent, it is highly recommended.
Rubber boots, raincoat, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen.
Leave no trace.

If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!

References

Colombian Airforce Website
Colparques Website.
Caracol TV Youtube Channel

About the author

Sara Colmenares

Current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism – environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.