Travel Guide to Los Flamencos Fauna & Flora Sanctuary in Colombia

Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary is an important reserve with marshes, lagoons, and an important fragment of tropical dry forest created to protect a large population of American flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber). This reserve is also the habitat of 185 other bird species, 80% of which are migratory.

This Sanctuary is located in the town of Camarones, very close to the city of Riohacha in La Guajira. It is part of the Northern Caribbean Birding Trail of Colombia.

Los Flamencos has shallow lagoons that fill up when the rains come and evaporate during the dry season. When the water evaporates, the marine salt concentrates, facilitating the growth of brine shrimp (Artemia sp.), which attracts American flamingos!

The local community consists mainly of Wayuu Indians. They are known for their colorful bags (mochilas), and handicrafts.

Discovering Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary

Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary is formed by four coastal swamps, with an area of 768. 2 square kilometers. It was declared Colombia’s National and Cultural Patrimony in 1992, being one of the smallest protected areas in the country, but one of the richest in a variety of resident and migratory birds. Moreover, it is home to algae, mollusks, crustaceans, and fish.

Temperature varies from 26 to 33 degrees celsius at its highest point.

Picture from Audubon: “Wayuu indigenous students and teacher Alvaro Jaramillo are bird watching in La Guajira, Colombia. The program teaches locals to become tour guides for travelers interested in spotting birds. Photo: Carlos Villalon”

Los Flamencos Sanctuary offers diverse cultural and gastronomic options, especially, from local Wayuu. Worth noticing is the ancestral dances and “make-up” worn by Wayuu people from the nearby rancherias tribes.

In the case of Los Flamencos Flamingo Fauna and Flora Sanctuary, they offer a year of work to a representative of each of the tribes present in the sector. There are 7 tribes and two of them are selected annually to provide information and orientation to the sanctuary’s visitors with the support of a representative from the national natural parks in the city of Bogota.

Food delicacies available include different types of fish, seafood, and goat meat, prepared with the region’s ancestral recipes.

The American Flamingo

These beautiful birds with pink feathers, long legs, and slender long- curved necks, are by far the most interesting attraction in this place. In fact, the park is named after these birds.

Flamingos are monogamous birds that lay only one egg per year. Their nests are mud mounds with a height of approximately 30 to 55 cm. Its hatchlings are born with white or grey feathers and they must wait 3 years for their feathers to turn pink.

Note that flamencos are easier to watch during the rainy season.

American Flamingo – Phoenicopterus ruber at Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary, Colombia

Why are Flamingos Pink?

Remember the shrimps we mentioned above? Flamingos get their pink color from the consumption of those brine shrimps, which are rich in beta carotene, a red-orange pigment.

Archaeological ruins

Other than flamingos, this place hosts archaeological ruins that confirm the presence of the “Guanebucans”, pre-colonial fishing and farming communities in the area that belong to the Arawak family.

These pre-colonial communities were forced to immigrate to the high areas in the Sierra Nevada, approximately 100 km west, after Spanish incursions.

How to get to Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary

From Bogotá

Take a 1.5 hours flight from Bogotá to Almirante Padilla International Airport (RCH) at Riohacha city. From Riohacha take an approximately 40 minutes ride to Camarones hamlet (20 km).

Once at Camarones hamlet you should walk along a trail for 3.5 km to the administrative center of the Park: Cabaña Guanebucane.

From Santa Marta

Take an approximately 2,5 hours ride to Camarones (165 km). From Camarones walk along 3.5 km trail to the administrative center of the Ministry of the Environment, Cabaña Guanebucane.

What to do in Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary

Hiking

Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary have a 2-hour trail through the Navio Quebrado lagoon. Then, hop on a water canoe and adventure yourself. During the tour enjoy the wonderful Caribbean Sea and the snow peaks of Colón and Bolivar, both part of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Wildlife Observation

At Los Flamencos Sanctuary it is possible to find mixt of fresh and saltwater, which makes the whole ecosystem very diverse. Unique habitats such as tropical dry forest and tropical very dry forest that host wonderful species are present.

The sanctuary is characterized as an important migratory stop for turtles such as the leatherback sea turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), the hawksbill sea turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata), and the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas)

At the time of rising tides, the shrimps begin their reproductive migration process.

In the rainy season, it is possible to appreciate the foliage of the beautiful yellow flower of the Puy (Handroanthus billbergii). Additionally, the place is host to the most diverse ecosystem of plants, such as the black mangrove (Avicennia germinans), the Dulce (Conocarpus erectus), the white mangrove (Laguncularia racemosa), and, to a lesser extent, the red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle).

Birdwatching

It is possible to appreciate the pink flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber ruber) resident in the sanctuary. However, there are plenty of birds you can see around. Ibis, gulls, terns, and many migratory shorebirds are to be found at Los Flamencos.

Vermilion Cardinal – Cardinalis phoeniceus

In the forest, you will find specialties restricted to NE Colombia and NW Venezuela, including Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Bare-eyed Pigeon, Buffy Hummingbird, Russet-throated Puffbird, Chestnut Piculet, White-whiskered Spinetail, Slender-billed Inezia, Orinocan Saltator, Pileated Finch, Tocuyo Sparrow, Crested Bobwhite, Blue-crowned Parakeet, Brown-throated Parakeet, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Black-crested Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren and Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, and the Vermillion Cardinal.

The Vermilion Cardinal is called “Rey Guajiro” (“King of the Guajira”) by the Wayuu people, and it is very important for their culture and traditions.

Where to stay in Los Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary

Camarones town offers different types of accommodation. Our suggested choices are:

  • Playa Samara Hostel, 14 kilometers away from the Sanctuary entrance.
  • Mar Azul-Playa Hotel, 12 kilometers away from the Sanctuary entrance.

You can also stay in Riohacha. Our suggested choice is Hotel Taroa.

Best time to visit Los Flamencos Sanctuary

The dry season is around December to late April and from July to late August and is the most convenient. But the dates when you will see the largest amount of pink flamingos is from October to late November.

Entrance fees

The entrance fee to The Flamencos Fauna and Flora Sanctuary is free. However, since it is located inside an indigenous territory, they ask you for a little representative payment.

What to consider before visiting Los Flamencos Sanctuary

  • Return ALL garbage you generate during the tour with you and dispose of it at the waste disposal sites.
  • Entrance for children under 5 years old, pregnant women, people with heart or respiratory conditions are not recommended.
  • Any guided tours must be done with authorized and certified tourist guides.
  • Always travel along the paths and trails marked by local authorities.
  • Be respectful of the Wayuu culture, its territories, and nature.
  • Consider wearing personal protective items (sun blocker, sunglasses, towel, insect repellent, and hat).
  • Carry reusable water bottles.
  • Bring along enough water for the journey (at least 1.5 liters).
  • Do not use flash when taking photographs.
  • Use of binoculars to admire animal behavior and beauty in their natural habitat.
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance.
  • It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you. It’s never enough to carry a personal medicine kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, littering, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Visit the Mana Dulce Reserve, 50 years Conserving a Humid Enclave in the Tropical Dry Forest

The Tropical dry forest represents 22% of the forests in South America. In Colombia, the tropical dry forest was originally distributed in the regions of the Caribbean plain and the inter-Andean valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers between 0 and 1000 m of altitude. Today it only remains 8% of its original extension.

The Inter Andean Valleys Dry Forest of Colombia

Inter Andean Tropical Dry Forest from ana Dulce Reserve

In the region of the inter-Andean valleys, the tropical dry forest is distributed in the departments of Valle del Cauca, Tolima, Huila, Cundinamarca, and Antioquia, covering approximately 1’650.000 hectares.

The dry forests of the inter-Andean valleys have similar vegetation to the dry forest of the Caribbean plain, suggesting that in a remote past these regions were connected, constituting a corridor to the dry coastal areas of Ecuador and Peru.

There are several woody plant species restricted to the dry forests of inter-Andean valleys. There are also some bird species restricted to this habitat. For the arid zones and tropical dry forest of the inter-Andean valleys of the Cauca and Magdalena rivers the following birds are registered as endemic: Red-legged Tinamou (Crypturellus erythropus), Chestnut-winged Chachalaca (Ortalis garrula), and Velvet-fronted Euphonia (Euphonia concinna), which are associated with the tropical dry forest.

Mana Dulce Civil Society Nature Reserve

The Mana Dulce Civil Society Nature Reserve is located in the Inter-Andean valley of the Magdalena River, in the department of Cundinamarca. Its distinct avifauna of tropical dry, deciduous forest, only about 3 hours away from Bogota, immediately caught our interest. Its dry climate is appealing and it is the total opposite to the lush and wet forests of Amazonia.

Fifty years ago, Mr. Helio Mendoza saw in the relics of the tropical dry forest of the Alto Magdalena an opportunity to reconnect with nature. He first bought 20 hectares, where he built a colonial house for his family.

Little by little, he completed about 90 hectares full of trees from the tropical dry forest, an almost extinct ecosystem in the country.

Mana Dulce Reserve House

In 2002 the family managed to convert this land into a civil society natural reserve where today an ecotourism project is being carried out. In this place, there are natural caves with bats, viewpoints, trails opened by animals, and a water source in the middle of the tropical dry forest, hence the name of the reserve.

There are trails decorated with native trees such as ceibas and palms more than 150 years old and 30 meters high; a natural spring with 200 years of life; an old stone bridge, which is said to be the third natural stone bridge built in Colombia; the Chimbilacera cave, four meters high and 20 meters deep, where 19 species of bats live; and the viewpoint “Mirador del Indio Malachí”, which offers a panoramic view of the dry forest of the Alto Magdalena.

Birding at Mana Dulce Nature Reserve

As you may have guessed, the avifauna of Mana Dulce Reserve is intriguingly similar to the drier forests of the Caribbean CoastAlthough species diversity is smaller in dry forests than in humid forests, it is a highly interesting ecosystem.

It might not appear at first glance, but this ecosystem is equally threatened by habitat destruction (clearing for cattle pasture, frequent fires) as most other forest types in Latin America. 

We hopped on public transport in Bogota and settled for a 4 days stay. Accommodation is available within the property of the private reserve. Get more information via Facebook. Three meals were included in the modest price.  

The two main birding areas are several easy Loop-tails through the forest of the property, starting just next to the farm, and along the access road to the reserve. There are accessible trails outside the reserve that can be explored. They have much of the same species as the trails within Mana Dulce Reserve. 

A Colombian endemic confined to dry forests of the Magdalena valley: Velvet-fronted Euphonia – Euphonia concinna.

Birding early hours is key, as it gets very hot after 10 o’clockOne of the star attractions is easily seen: The endemic Velvet-fronted EuphoniaIt frequently visits and even nests right next to the main building. 

Colombian Chachalacas (endemic), are easily located by their loud calls. Apical Flycatcher (yes, another endemic) can be found at several sites close to the building. Another main targets are Pheasant Cuckoo which likes to sing at night. Listen for its simple plaintive song here.

Barred Puffbird, Dwarf CuckooRed-billed Scythebill, Greenish ElaeniaCinereous Becard, Lance-tailed Manakin, White-eared Conebill are among the many quality birds to be looked for. 

White-fringed Antwren – Formicivora grisea

White-fringed Antwren, Barred-, Black-crowned AntshrikeJet– and White-bellied Antbirds represent the Thamnophilds.  The drab Tyrannids, Southern Beardless-, Mouse-colored TyrannuletPearly-vented Tody-TyrantPale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant & Euler’s Flycatcher blend perfectly in the barren surrounding. 

Rufous-tailed JacamarRufous-capped Warbler & Orange-crowned Oriole for sure, add some color! 

There are several more common & and widespread species like Whooping MotmotRufous-browed PeppershrikeScrub GreenletBlack-chested Jay & Black-faced Grassquit to keep one entertained. 

White-bellied Antbird – Myrmeciza longipes
Pale-eyed Pygmy-tyrant – Atalotriccus pilaris
Fuscous Flycatcher – Cnemotriccus fuscatus

This reserve is not often visited by tour groups and even individual birders. But its easy access, quality birding, and tranquility make it a prime destination for those who wish to visit a reserve of the well-established birding routes in Colombia. 

References
  • Tropical Dry Forest of Colombia. Biological Resources Research Institute Alexander von Humboldt.
  • The Tropical Dry Forest in Colombia (Bs-T). Alexander von Humboldt Institute. Biodiversity Inventory Program. Group of Explorations and Environmental Monitoring GEMA. 1998.
  • Semana Rural On-line Journal
About the authors

Sara Colmenares 

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching. 

Jérôme Fischer

Professional bird guide, swiss native, with more than 32 years of experience guiding hardcore birders and birdwatching tours. Jérôme has been focused on bird identification. He also traveled to many countries,  starting in Switzerland. Then he traveled exploring South America, the most biodiverse continent in the world, becoming specialized in Neotropical birds.