Unique destination in the Colombian Caribbean: Old Providence McBean Lagoon Park

Old Providence McBean Lagoon Park is the only National Natural Park, of the 59 in Colombia, located in the insular Caribbean and is part of the Seaflower Man and Biosphere Reserve, established by UNESCO in 2000. Know more about the biosphere reserves of Colombia in our entry Next Travel Ideas? Visit the Biosphere Reserves of Colombia.

In this blog I offer you a brief review about everything you need to know before visiting Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park in the Colombian Caribbean.

Discovering Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

This protected area in unique and is the only one in the insular oceanic Caribbean of Colombia. It is located northwest of the island of Providencia archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina. The park has an extension of about 9,95 km² of land area of which 9,05km² are marine area.

The small part of its land area is known as Iron Wood Hill, which has the second largest barrier reef in the Caribbean, after Belize, protecting the coasts of the island of Providencia. Thanks to the large coral reef in this area, its waters turn from a dark blue to a translucent turquoise blue; that is why it is known as “the Sea of 7 colors“.

Ecosystems at Old Providence McBean Lagoon

The park has 4 ecosystems of the archipelago that can be appreciated during the traveler’s visit: mangrove forests, coral formations, seagrass meadows and a small extension of dry forest.

Dry forest

This is a typical tropical dry forest distributed between 0-100 meters above sea level, the extent of this ecosystem in the park is 4.96 km².

Mangrove

Mangroves are coastal tree formations with adaptations to filter saltwater flow. In the lower part of the McBean micro-cave it is possible to appreciate the mangroves with an extension of 4.07 km².

SeaGrass Beds

These are formations of phanerogams capable of carrying out their life cycle submerged in saline waters. In the Iron Wood Hill and McBean Mangrove sectors there is an area of 5 km² of these seagrasses.

Coral Reefs

These are communities made up of stony or hard corals, algae, octocorals and sponges. The park has coral formations in the reef lagoon and lagoon terrace occupying an area of 13.43 km² or 90.4% of the total protected area. The protection of the coral reefs were the main reason to declare the park as a protected area.

Thus, the park has been part of the Special Management Area of the Archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina since 1996, the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve since 2000 and the Seaflower Marine Protected Area of the Archipelago since 2004.

How to get to Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

Bogotá-San Andres Island

Take a 1,2- hour flight from Bogotá to Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (ADZ) at San Andres Island. Once at the airport, tienes dos opciones para llegar al parque:

1. Take an extra 4-hour katamaran to Old Providence Mc Bean Lagoon.
2. Take a 30- minutes flight to El Embrujo Airport (PVA)

What to do in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

It has a 32-kilometer coral barrier reef and a small hill known as Iron Wood Hill. In this protected area, where there is a 48-hectare dry forest, you can go hiking, diving, snorkeling and bird watching, among other activities. The islanders limit construction and are owners of the entire hotel offer, to reduce the environmental impacts of tourism, a task they do hand in hand with travelers who know this natural wonder.

Diving and snorkeling

The park has 2 authorized dive sites with a maximum depth of 12 meter: Crab Cay and White Shoal (Hippie’s Place). There is a variety of reef species of wonderful colors and shapes for these activities. The transparency of its waters will leave you speechless, and the range of colors that you will be able to appreciate goes from deep blue to translucent sea water.

Among the species that can be observed are: Groupers, Chermas, anemones, mollusks, echinoderms and fish. The most important feature is the barrier reef, one of the largest in the world!

This not only gives it a permanent ecological importance, but also gives its waters an amazing aspect, making you able to see species with the naked eye without special equipment.

Corals of Peace, Diving with Purpose

Corales de Paz is a local foundation devoted to the conservation and research around the coral reefs in San Andres And Providencia. In 2020, it won with its initiative Seaflower Meaningful Diving (SMD) one of the most important awards recently offered for the reactivation of nature tourism in Colombia (Know more about in our entry The Top Post-Covid-19 Destinations for Conservation Lovers in Colombia).

Seaflower Meaningful Diving – Natural Wealth Award

“Seaflower Meaningful Diving, Diving with Purpose”, is focused on promoting collaboration between islanders, fishermen and tourists to fund projects for education, conservation, restoration and management of coral reefs in the Archipelago of San Andres, Providencia and Santa Catalina, through e-learning courses, complemented with gamification, allowing people to start their diving experience and preparation from home.

In the destination, travelers will be able to dive with Green Fins certified operators (as responsible and environmentally friendly dive operators), and receive the Reef Check EcoDivers (participatory coral monitoring) and/or the Reef Repair Divers (participatory coral reef restoration) certificates.

The first results of this project will be seen in 2022, so get ready!

Seaflower Meaningful Diving is the result of a strategic alliance between three organizations: the Corales de Paz Foundation, the local tour operator specialized in diving Paradis de Colors and the engineering and technological innovation company DeepCo.

Land and Maritime Hiking

Hiking is an exciting activity in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park. You can hike only 1 trail: Iron Wood Hill. The round trip is about 3 km and medium degree of difficulty. During the tour it is possible to appreciate the mangrove and dry forest ecosystems along with the park’s terrestrial fauna.

Kayaking is also available at the park’s permitted sites: Crab Cay, White Shoal, Okay Point Land Trail dock at Iron Wood Hill and McBean Mangrove Land Trail overlook dock.

Birdwatching

According to the PROAVES and McNish registry, the park has 179 bird species, of which more than 156 are migratory. There are 22 locally registered marine species and 21 shorebirds; during the winter season, the number of birds in the park is reduced.

The archipelago has an endemic bird, the San Andrés Vireo (Vireo caribaeus) locally called Chincherry.

According to Proaves, San Andres is an important step area for migratory birds, and as part of the Biosphere Reserve “Seaflower”, in it was declared as an Important Bird Area -IBA by Birdlife in 2005.

Wildlife Observation

On the island it is possible to identify more than 2 species of bats, one of the most representative is the Jamaican fruit bat (Artibeus jamaicensis). There are 2 species of snakes Boa or Bowla (Boa constrictor), and the Black Blind Snake (Leptotyphlops goudotii spp. magnamaculata).

Only one type of amphibian, the Bolivian toad-frog (Leptodactylus bolivianus, synonym L. insularis), has been recorded around the park.

Black crabs or zombie crabs (Gecarcinus ruricola), which inhabit scattered stones throughout the park, are appreciated by visitors and are also part of the island’s economy, both for local consumption and for export to San Andres Island.

Where to stay in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

The park does not have lodging but you can stay on the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina.

Providence Island offers a wide variety of accommodations. Our recommended options for you to stay in are:

  • Crab Cay Boutique Lodge
  • Cabañas Agua Dulce.

Best time to visit Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

The park can be visited all year round, the dry months are from January to late June.

Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park Entrance fees

The entrance fee varies depending on the nationality and age of the visitors. These are the entrance fees for 2021:

  • Colombians, resident foreigners and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru (ages 5 to 25): COP 5,500
  • Colombians, resident foreigners and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru (over 25 years old): COP 11,500
  • Non-resident foreigners (over 5 years old): COP 19,000
  • Children under 5 years old and Colombians over 65 years old have free entrance presenting their IDs.

What to consider before visiting Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

  • Try to collaborate with the conservation objectives of the area and be careful with the environment.
  • When snorkeling or scuba diving, stay away from coral reefs, avoid touching or breaking them, corals are very fragile and take a long time to grow.
  • Avoid buying handicrafts made with shells, corals, and/or animal, vegetable or mineral elements.To take any of the tours inside the park you must hire an authorized and certified guide.
  • Consider wearing personal protective items (sunscreen, sunglasses, towel, insect repellent, and hat).
  • Recommended the use of binoculars to admire animals’ behavior and beauty in their natural habitat.
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance. It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Colparques
  • Colombia travel
  • EcuRed
  • Corales de Paz
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Best Place for Diving in Colombia: Malpelo Island Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

On the Pacific Ocean, 507 km west of the port of Buenaventura, is the island of Malpelo. It is the only oceanic island of the Pacific Ocean and belongs to the marine corridor of the eastern Pacific Ocean with 11 emerged islets.

The charm of Malpelo lies beneath the surface of the sea. Thanks to its location and great variety of marine flora and fauna Malpelo is among the 5 most beautiful and exotic places in the world to practice scuba diving.

The characteristics of the marine environment are strongly influenced by the type of currents that run through this area of the Pacific. Malpelo is the point of confluence of different and important currents of the Pacific Ocean. 

The encounter between the cold currents of the southern hemisphere and the warm equatorial currents makes its waters very rich in nutrients. Because of this, Malpelo is home to an incredible amount of fauna: hundreds of Green Moray Eels that swim in open waters, schools of barracudas, turtles, dolphins, manta rays in solitary and in groups, rays, longfins, and huge schools of mackerels.

Malpelo is also the sharks paradise, and this is the main reason that makes Malpelo a unique place in the world, with large concentrations of Silky Sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis) and Hammerhead Sharks (Sphyrna lewini), among others.

Discovering Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

The Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary is located on the unique submarine volcanic mountain range, Dorsal de Malpelo. The highest point is Cerro la Mona 300 meters above sea level, this marine mountain range has a length of 150 miles and 50 miles wide.

Voluminous eruptions of basaltic lava gave birth to this island. The islets that surround the island seem to be the result of erosion processes caused by the waves, causing them to be lifted by tectonic effects. This process forms terraces known as “Strath Terraces”.

Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary was declared a protected area in 1995 and has had 3 expansions in the years 1996, 2006 and 2017 with a total of 1.7 million miles.

In 2005 it was named an Important Bird Conservation Area (IBA) by BirdLife International and the Alexander Von Humboldt Research Institute. In 2006, UNESCO declared the sanctuary a Natural World Heritage Site, and today it is a Mission Blue hotspot. 

Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary has one of the most important coral formations of the Colombian Pacific; the marine fauna is very varied on the island, and in this sanctuary you can find 2 species of starfish endemic to the country. In addition to this, one of the most important hammerhead shark breeding areas in the world is located in Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary.

Unfortunately, the sanctuary is constantly harassed by illegal fishermen, which mainly affects hammerhead sharks and hawksbill turtles. In addition, overfishing in zones of influence within the protected area’s limits, such as for tuna, can reach alarming numbers, endangering the decline of the tuna communities.

The Malpelo y Otros Ecosistemas Marinos Foundation, is in charge of promoting the protection and care of marine areas, especially sharks, so that they have a safe habitat for their reproduction. They work together with the national parks system and the national navy.

How to get to Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Bogotá-Buenaventura

The only way to access the sanctuary is by sea, after a 36-hours open sea journey from the city of Buenaventura. Take a 145- minutes flight from Bogotá to Alfonso Bonilla Aragón International Airport (CLO) at Palmira city. Once at the airport, take an approximately 3- hours ride to Buenaventura.

What to do in Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Diving and snorkeling

The sanctuary has the following areas for these activities: La gringa, Escuba, Los Reyes, Los gemelos, Sahara, Vagamares, El arrecife, La nevera, Monster face, El mirador, El Freezer, Aquarium, Naufragio wall, Bajo del ancla and Bajo del Monstruo.

These areas have the optimal conditions for a unique experience. You must keep in mind that if you want to do these activities you must have previous knowledge.

Wildlife

The biological component in the terrestrial environment of Malpelo Island is represented by algae, lichens, mosses, some grasses, shrubby legumes and ferns. Seabirds provide guano that acts as fertilizer along with the rain to generate a food source for the invertebrates that inhabit the island.

Ants such as the trap jaw ants (Odontomachus baur), which is considered to have been introduced to the island by man, can be found throughout the sanctuary. It is also possible to find a new species of beetle from the Platynus genus, which is unusual and can be found in Colombia and Ecuador.

Johngarthia malpilensis – Ph. by Daniel Vásquez-Restrepo CC

On the island, it is also possible to observe the terrestrial crab Johngarthia malpilensis, which is also endemic to the island. Besides this, several other species of crabs also live on the hard substrates, and there are around 270 species of gastropods, 60 of bivalves, 3 of cephalopods, 2 of Scaphopods, and 6 of Polyplacophorans.

Four species of reptiles inhabit the sanctuary:

  • Anolis agassizi, from the equator, feeds on the remains and food waste of seabirds.
  • Dactyloa agassizi is one of the island’s endemic lizards, greenish in color. It feeds on insects and crabs.
  • Diploglossus millepunctatus is also an endemic lizard of the island. Its diet is based on the remains of seabirds and in case of food shortages they can break their eggs and consume them together with the dead hatchlings.
  • Phyllodactus traversalis, known as the geko lizard, joins the sanctuary’s endemic species. It has nocturnal feeding habits based on insects, but during the day it takes refuge in rock crevices.

Malpelo has a wide variety of marine birds, making it an excellent place for bird watching. The bird with the largest representation is the Nazca booby (Sula granti). A third to a quarter of the total breeding population of this species worldwide nests in the Island of Malpelo.

The Biological Component in the Marine Environment

You will see different specie in the rocky walls of Malpelo depending on the depth. From 3 to 6 meters the walls are covered by sponges and some corals, such as the Tubastrea aurea. After 27 meters it is possible to see filamentous algae and violet hydro corals.

In the depths of the sanctuary there are submarine terraces divided into 4 sectors; the slopes of these sectors are the areas where the coral communities are most present. The four sectors are located as follows:

  • “El Arrecife”, it is the most extensive and is located to the northeast of the island.
  • “Pared del Náufrago” (Castaway’s Wall), located to the northwest.
  • “La Bahía de la Nevera” to the west, and “El Bajo de la Nevera” to the southwest.
  • “El Bajo de Junior” to the southwest.
Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) CC Ph. By Sandra Bessudo, Malpelo Foundation

The sanctuary has identified 390 reef fish species and 5 of these species are endemic: Halichoeres malpelo, Axoclinus rubinoffi, Lepidonectes bimaculta, Chriolepis lepidotus, and Acanthemblemaria stephensi.

Pelagic fish, mammals, and sea turtles aggregate in the sanctuary, and it is considered a passageway for migratory species such as tuna, which feed in the sanctuary’s environment during their migration.

There are two species of sharks that can be seen during the visit: hammerhead shark (Sphyrna lewini) and Galapagos shark (Carcharhinus galapagensis). The cleaning zones in Malpelo are inhabited by the barberfish (Jhonrandallia nigrirostris), the king angelfish (Holacanthus passer) and juveniles of mexican hogfish (Bodianus diplotaenia).

Due to the large number of larvae present in the sanctuary, it is possible to see whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) and manta rays (Manta birostris), which can be frequently sighted along with communities of common bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus).

Where to stay in Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary does not have lodging available, you will stay on boat.

Best time to visit Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Malpelo Island can be visited all year round, it has humidity in the air and remains covered by a dense mist. The months with the lowest humidity are between December and March.

Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary Entrance fees

The entrance fee varies depending on the nationality and age of the visitors. These are the entrance fees for 2021:

  • Colombians, foreigners holding a valid residence permit, and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru (over 25 years old): COP 116.000 (Diver/day); COP 79.000 (Instructors for accompanying groups/day): COP 35.500 (Boats/day)
  • Non-resident foreigners (over 25 years old): COP 216.000 (Diver/day); COP 116.000 (Instructors for accompanying groups/day): COP 65.000 (Boats/day)

What to consider before visiting Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

  • To dive in Malpelo there must be one certified guide with experience in the area for every six divers.
  • Tourists must be certified as advanced divers or two-star divers, and have a minimum of 35 dives in their logbook, information that will be corroborated by the National Parks official in the protected area.
  • The maximum diving depth allowed is up to 140 feet.
  • Each diver must have the minimum equipment for underwater activities and safety equipment.
  • Minors must have written permission from their parents, even if they are accompanying them.
  • It is important to ensure buoyancy control as a measure to avoid damage to ecosystems, and to refrain from feeding, chasing or touching marine fauna. Therefore, a buoyancy check dive is done to verify the diver’s ability.
  • Avoid carrying harmful elements that threaten the health of ecosystems such as CFC aerosols, and non-biodegradable cleaning products.
  • Diving activities are programmed from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., all within a previously defined schedule and depending on weather and oceanographic conditions.
  • Recommended the use of binoculars to admire animals’ behavior and beauty in their natural habitat.
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance. It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!

References
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.