Tag: Caribbean Colombia

The Magical Realism of the Macondo Route in the Colombian Caribbean

Posted on by Frank59872

Macondo does not appear on maps, and could be any town in the northern Caribbean of Colombia. Everything seems to indicate that Macondo is inspired by Arataca, a municipality in the department of Magdalena where Gabriel García Márquez was born. So, the Macondo Route is recently developed as a touristic project, since 2017.

What does it mean Macondo?

Macondo comes from makonde, which is the plural of likonde, a word used to refer to the prenominate fruit in the millenary Central African language, which literally means ‘devil’s food’.

The Macondo Route

The Government of the Department of Magdalena has designed the Macondo Route, which will take you to each of the places present in the book One Hundred Years of Solitude, by the Colombian novel winner Gabriel Garcia Marquez. This project integrates 8 municipalities that you will have the opportunity to discover.

You can also enjoy an eco-village in Macondo and the Mauricio Babilonia’s butterfly farm. This tour promotes the growth and development of these towns, in addition to promoting the protection of the environment.

Cienaga

The town is located in front of the Caribbean Sea, near the Cienaga Grande. Ciénaga has historical, colonial, archaeological and natural sites to visit; the beaches on the shores of the Caribbean Sea offer a moment of peace and tranquility. It is part of Colombia’s network of heritage towns.

Ciénaga can be reached from Santa Marta or Barranquilla by car or bus. From Santa Marta it is 17 kilometers, while from Barranquilla it is 62 kilometers. To get to Ciénaga from Bogotá you must take a 1-hour flight from the city of Bogotá at El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to Simón Bolívar International Airport (SMR) in Santa Marta. From the airport you have to take a cab to Ciénaga, 33 km away (40 minutes).

It can be said that Ciénaga has the privilege of possessing an invaluable historical and cultural heritage. The Templete, the Chapel of the Santa Teresa School, the Old Railroad Station, the Church of San Juan Bautista, the Masonic Lodge, “La Casa del Diablo” transport us to past times and accompany us in the present with its colonial air.

Its colonial style houses show the former prosperity of the sector and is testimony of the economic boom that Cienaga had since 1900, through the export of bananas. It went from being an indigenous town in a state of colonial occupation to become the third most important city in the Colombian Caribbean.

García Márquez’s grandparents arrived in Ciénaga in the first decade of the 1900s. Although García Márquez only lived a short time in Ciénaga, the municipality is full of tributes to him.

One of the most visited places by the local people is the Balneario de Costa Verde, a place with beautiful landscapes and natural pools, where the Cordoba River flows into the Cienaga Grande and its countless pipes.

You can not forget to take a tour of the historic center of the town along with its streets, which will transport you to another era full of history.

The Cemetery of the Rich

The tomb of Remedios, la bella, is located in the San Miguel de Ciénaga cemetery, better known as the cemetery of the rich. According to local guides, the name of the person who gave life to the character in the book is Rosario Barranco, who was the first Miss Magdalena, in 1934.

Many stories related to her unparalleled beauty were told about her, hence the nickname ‘Rosario, la bella’ (Rosario, the beautiful). Some say that García Márquez took the reference and adapted it to ‘Remedios, la bella’, because for him she was so beautiful that she was a remedy for ugliness.

Their deaths even resemble each other, unmarried, flying between white sheets. Rosario collapsed in front of the church of San Juan Bautista, of a fulminating heart attack, from her shawl Garcia Marquez created a sheet for Remedios, in which she flew to heaven.

Banana-growing Zone

It has a natural and historical wealth that marked the territory with the inclusion of the railroad train and the cultivation of bananas. It also has the privilege of having three basins that are maintained with water throughout the year.

Most of the banana towns were built on the sides of the railroad, so there is an element that connects the Colombian Nobel’s magical realism literature and the passage of the train loaded with bananas that transformed Macondo.

Nowadays, in terms of agriculture there is corn, rice, beans, fruit trees, horticulture and cassava, in addition, there is an important area planted with bananas and oil palm.

The Riofrío Commissariat

The Riofrío Commissariat is located in the Riofrío district, in the banana-growing zone. There, the day laborers of the United Fruit Company, the U.S. multinational that marketed fruits grown in Latin America, went on strike in order to improve their working conditions.

The company’s managers did not comply with their demands and twenty-four days later, on December 6, 1928, one of the most chilling events in Colombian history took place: The Banana Factory Massacre.

The nonconformity of the workers were narrated in One Hundred Years of Solitude explaining the state of mind of the workers, who needed a change. And although they only demanded that their rights be respected, no one supported them.

The most frequent activities take place in Rio Frio, Sevilla and Tucurinca, where you can enjoy a swim in crystal clear waters, you can also make kayak tours that end where the Sevilla and Rio Frio river basin joins.

To get to Zona Bananera you must take a 1 hour flight from the city of Bogota at El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to Simon Bolivar International Airport (SMR) in Santa Marta. From the airport take a cab to Zona Bananera, 59 km (1 hour).

Varela, municipality of the yellow butterflies

Near the commissary stop, and still next to the train tracks, is Varela.

“After the massacre of the banana plantations the quantities of bananas that remained on the plants uncut began to decompose. This caused the proliferation of many butterflies of different colors, being the yellow ones the predominant ones“, says a local guide.

It is in Valera, where a mechanic of the United Fruit Company lived and who in One Hundred Years of Solitude appears as Mauricio Babilonia, who is in love with Renata Remedios Buendia. The yellow butterflies preceded Mauricio Babilonia’s appearances, indicating to Remedios when she could meet her forbidden love.

City of the “gringos” and Casa Museo de Sevilla

After crossing the Aguja and Frío rivers, you arrive at the city of the “gringos”.

As “Gabo” once recounted, Prado Sevilla was a privileged place in the banana region. The high officials of the United Fruit Company, who were generally American, French and German citizens, enjoyed a swimming pool, bilingual school, golf course, the only movie theater in the region, heliport, electric light (which none of the other towns had), a military battalion that guarded its inhabitants all day long, a clinic and buildings completely different from the other workers’ camps.

There you will find the Casa Museo de Sevilla, which still preserves the original furniture that the United Fruit Company provided to its employees.

Macondo

There in Zona Bananera is a small village called Macondo. Its inhabitants tell that Garcia Marquez knew it, and that he simply didn’t give them the credit out of interest or embarrassment.

At the entrance of the village, which is located in the heart of the banana zone, there is a giant, colorful sign that reads: “I love the real Macondo. Land of inspiration that gave birth to the magical Macondian world. Fertile land blessed by God on the banks of the Sevilla River”.

In an interview with Gabriel García Márquez asking him where Macondo was, he answered that it existed in everyone’s mind. For this reason, the inhabitants of this village consider that he was not loyal to them. And, although Macondo generates a lot of money for the film, manufacturing and literary industries, the inhabitants of the real Macondo are impoverished.

Aracataca

Aracataca is the birthplace of the writer Gabriel García Márquez. It is located in the north of the department of Magdalena, in the sub-region of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the temperatures range between 33°C and 36°C.

Many of the places in Aracataca pay homage to Gabriel García Márquez. The most recent is the Macondo Linear Park, which was founded in 2019. There you can see a colorful artistic path of 350 meters with more than 30 murals that capture some fragments of the author’s most representative works.

There is also the Gabriel García Márquez Public Library, the Remedios la Bella Municipal Library, the statue of Remedios la Bella, the Railway Station and the Telegraph House, where Eligio García, Gabo’s father, worked.

The first place we recommend you to visit is the Gabriel García Márquez House Museum, where the famous writer lived. Admission is free but they ask for a voluntary donation for its maintenance.

You can also go to the old Casa del Telegrafista (Telegraph House), where the Colombian writer’s father worked, the entrance is also free. Finally, you can take a tour through the streets of the town in the company of a guide, who will tell you the stories of Gabo when he lived in the town.

To get to Aracataca you have to take a 1-hour flight from Bogota city at El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to Simon Bolivar International Airport (SMR) in Santa Marta. From the airport you have to take a cab to A, 84 km (1.5 – hours).

Other places you can visit around the Mancondo Route

Sitionuevo and Puebloviejo

Sitionuevo is a municipality of the department located in the department of Magdalena, is on the right bank of the Magdalena River is one of the ideal places to enjoy nature in the Caribbean.

Puebloviejo It is located in the north of the department of Magdalena, linked by an isthmus to the city of San Juan (Ciénaga). It has an incalculable hydrographic wealth, as it is surrounded by the waters of the Caribbean Sea and the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta.

The villagers summarize the essence of the true fishermen of the country, so when visiting this town you can learn about traditional fishing techniques and hear many anecdotes of veteran fishermen.

To get to Sitionuevo you must take a 1-hour flight from the city of Bogota at El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to the Ernesto Cortissoz International Airport (BAQ) in Barranquilla. From the airport take a cab to Sitionuevo, 37 km away (1-hour).

To get to Pueblo Viejo you have to take a 1 hour flight from the city of Bogota at El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to Simon Bolivar International Airport (SMR) in Santa Marta. From the airport take a cab to Puebloviejo, 37 km away (1 hour).

Via-Parque Isla de Salamanca

Near this town is the Via-Parque Isla de Salamanca. This park is located on the right side of the Troncal del Caribe highway, 110 km from Santa Marta and 10 km from Barranquilla after crossing the Pumarejo bridge. It is full of exuberant trails with unique fauna and flora of the Tropical Dry Forest.

Along the way you will find a considerable variety of freshwater vegetation, as well as mangroves and the aquatic community of floating species, water lettuce, freshwater grasses and swamp forest.

In terms of fauna, mammals are represented by the presence of 14 families and 33 species. The park has a record of 241 bird species, and since 1964 it has been declared a refuge for birds and amphibians.

El Retén

El Reten is located in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta subregion. This town has two large rivers, the Aracataca River to the north and the Fundación River to the south, both of which originate in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and flow into the Ciénaga Grande.

During your visit to these lands you can dance and enjoy the cumbia and other rhythms enlivened by flutes, bagpipes, drums and others; you can wear the typical costumes and enjoy a rumbero atmosphere.

You will have the opportunity to visit the natural reserve El Chuval which, in turn, borders the Ciénaga Grande. In this wonderful place you can find a diversity of fauna and flora, you can go fishing, or just to see the view.

To get to El Retén you must take a 1 hour flight from the city of Bogotá at the El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to the Simón Bolívar International Airport (SMR) in Santa Marta. From the airport take a cab to El Retén, 97 km (2 hours).

Santa Marta

Santa Marta, officially the Tourist, Cultural and Historic District of Santa Marta, is the capital of the department of Magdalena, Colombia. It was founded on July 29, 1525 by the Spaniard Rodrigo de Bastidas, which according to the texts, makes it the oldest standing city in Colombia. It is located on the shores of the bay of the same name.

Santa Marta is known by the slogan The magic of having it all. In addition to several beaches and sites of historical value, it has the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, which has archaeological sites such as Ciudad Perdida.

Its most famous beaches are El Rodadero and Taganga, the latter being the entrance to the Tayrona National Park.

In the Plaza de Bolivar, next to the boardwalk, is the Casa de la Aduana, where the body of Simon Bolivar rested in a burning chamber. It currently houses the Tayrona Gold Museum of the Bank of the Republic.

The city also has several sites of cultural interest. Among them are the San Juan Nepomuceno Cloister, the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, from 1830, and the Cathedral Basilica of Santa Marta, built in the 1760s. This temple houses a small urn containing the heart and entrails of Simón Bolívar.

Where to stay?

You can visit the Casa D’ Remedios La Bella hotel boutique in Ciénaga, where each room is named after the female characters of the work One Hundred Years of Solitude, or visit the Amaranta Restaurant, which includes other elements in honor of “Gabo”, such as a clock that gathers 12 of his books.

Want to plant your trip to Colombia? do no hesitate to contact us!

References
 About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Stop Romanticizing Poverty, the case of Santa Cruz del Islote, Colombia

Posted on by Frank59872

In the heart of the Gulf of Morrosquillo, in the middle of the Caribbean Sea, is Santa Cruz del Islote, an artificial island under the jurisdiction of the Corales del Rosario and San Bernardo National Natural Park, where 779 people live on one hectare. It is the most overcrowded island in the world.

Santa Cruz del Islote, with its shingled houses, stands out from the crystalline waters of the Caribbean Sea, in the heart of the Gulf of Morrosquillo. It is covered by a collage of more than 100 houses, everyone there is family related, and the offspring continue to grow.

The formation of new families has caused construction to grow vertically, increasing household overcrowding. The island has no public utilities and 40 percent of households still dump feces into the sea; the rest of the community uses septic pits.

The island’s vocation has always been fishing, but in recent years it has been seduced by tourism….

Slum Tourism in Colombia

The hyper-crowded Island

Santa Cruz del Islote has gained much popularity due to its overpopulation. Newspapers, such as The Guardian, have associated it with García Márquez’s magical realism, relating how people live at their own pace and highlighting the absence of violence and the mutual support among the inhabitants who are like one big family.

Documentaries have also been made, such as Aislados (Isolated), an award-winning 2016 documentary. The documentary shows the most densely populated artificial island in the Colombian Caribbean where there are no police, no priests, no armed conflict, and where the arrival of modernity and the possibility of an eviction, makes its inhabitants begin to awaken from the magic spell.

Today many children on the island dream of moving to the mainland, studying, working, and thus “sending money to fix the island”.

Santa Cruz del Islote currently occupies 10.000 km2, i.e. 1 hectare. With an average of 1.25 inhabitants per 10 m², 65% of the population is under age, and there are only 6 surnames and 97 houses. Scarce resources, and people’s curiosity, created a niche for a kind of slum tourism, promoted by the same inhabitants. Besides, the Official Tourism Site of the Republic of Colombia, promotes it as a destination to see, for being the most densely populated island in the world.

So far, this slum tourism has made little change or contribution to improving conditions on the island or for its inhabitants; and it does contribute to romanticize poverty, by focusing on the magical realism of the colors of their houses, the marvelous blue of the Caribbean Sea and the children playing on a small soccer field. About their precarious and difficult reality? no idea.

Artisanal aquariums to swim with Sharks

Apart from the social-cultural attraction, another of the island main attractions are some artisanal aquariums, where locals kept sharks and fish, semi-confined, to swim with tourists. The propaganda followed the idea that going to Santa Cruz del Islote means having the opportunity to swim with sharks, rays and fish in the small improvised pool and make short tours through the streets of the island. Sounds Great! right? But reality is different.

In high season, the influx of tourists can reach 1,200 people, eager to participate in the great attraction offered by this community. Thus, for 5 thousand pesos, people have the right to swim with sharks.

There, in precarious conditions of confinement, without scientific surveillance or any kind of professional marine scientists, they keep the fish, which endure the harassment of dozens of tourists who jump into the water to touch them and take pictures.

This is a type of invasive and illegal tourism, even if the intention is not to mistreat the animals, but to have an alternative economic activity, it is not the right way.

On the other hand, as there are no sewage services on Colombia’s most populated island, the unwary travelers do not know that they are swimming in a sea of feces, in the aquarium-pools. There are also all kinds of pollutants, such as motor oil for the boats and large amounts of garbage.

Towards a sustainable tourism

In January 2020 a tourist denounced in her twitter account: This happens in Santa Cruz del islote, they have these animals in captivity so that people enter and touch them and disturb them. The animals were trying to avoid people. They are little animals that have no teeth, they can’t defend themselves #NoAlMaltratoAnimal @PoliciaColombia @Citytv pic.twitter.com/DvvcmZmqxz
– Daniela Correa (@dacf2891) January 27, 2020.

Although the sharks are going to be released, the inhabitants are asking for other work alternatives. Today the local government is working with these communities to implement sustainable tourism to protect the beaches and to eradicate illegal practices such as the captivity and mistreatment of these sharks.

The goal is to provide these communities with new work opportunities, such as implementing pools for lobster farming, training them in sustainable tourism practices, legalizing their boats, among others.

Discovering Santa Cruz del Islote

Santa Cruz del Islote. ©El Universal

Santa Cruz del Islote contrasts in a fascinating way with the Archipelago of San Bernardo, of which it is part, where wild mangroves, white beaches and few inhabitants is the common landscape.

However, it has an artificial origin, Santa Cruz del Islote was built by man.  The islet was built by fishermen who arrived and built it in the middle of the coral, with stone, rubble and garbage. The little town has four main streets but no presence of cars or motorcycles. You can see that there are boats everywhere, floating on the shores of the sea or on the cement patios of the houses.

On your visit to Santa Cruz del Islote you will see some stores, a health post, a three-story school, a restaurant and 97 houses that are no larger than 40 square meters. About ten people live in each house. The islet has an average temperature of 28°C (83º F).

How to get to Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz del Islote is located between the islands of Tintan and Múcura. The closest ports are Rincón del Mar, Berrugas and Tolú in Sucre, and boat transportation costs 30,000 pesos per person. To Cartagena, in Bolivar, the boat fare is 60,000 pesos.

  • Take a 1-hour flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Rafael Nuñez International Airport (CTG) at Cartagena city.
  • Take a 1-hour flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Las Brujas Airport (CZU) at Sincelejo city. Once at the airport, take an approximately 1-hour ride to Tolú.

Once there you must pay a fee of 5,000 COP for the entrance to the islet in exchange you will be offered a guided tour of the islet.

Where to stay in Santa Cruz del Islote

Santa Cruz del Islote belongs to the islands of San Bernardo, in the Colombian Caribbean. You can stay overnight on the island, but if you want a more comfortable accommodation you can stay in one of the adjacent islands: Múcura or Tintipán; or even in the houseboats in the surroundings, as is the case of “Casa en el Agua” (House on the Water), with very basic services and very low comfort.

Activities and attractions in Santa Cruz del Islote 

As mentioned before, at Santa Cruz del Islote you will know one of the most populated places in the world. You can stroll through its alleys and admire its colorful houses, you will talk to the people who always seems to be happy; you can also enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the island (no violence, theft, altercations or fights). If you are a soccer lover you will be able to play a game with the locals.

You can also visit near places in Tolú and Múcura Island.

Tolú

  • La Ciénaga de la Leche. It is a natural reserve located 20 minutes from the center of Tolú. It consists of beautiful mangrove trails and a surprising biodiversity. During the tour you will find several species of birds and abundant vegetation that will allow you to connect with nature.
  • Roca Madre Adventure Field Park. Considered one of the best attractions in the department of Sucre, this park is ideal for adventure lovers. You will be able to walk through the tropical dry forests and discover the most amazing natural attractions.

You will also have the possibility of doing several extreme activities for the more adventurous such as climbing, rappel and canopy, as well as getting to know the flora and fauna of the area.

  • The Toluviejo Caves.These caves are formed by millenary formations of stalactites, stalagmites and dolomites in its depths, dating from the Miocene and Pliocene periods. Ideal for spelunking activities, the caves are:Las Claras, Del Caimán, De la Iglesia or Catedral, De las Mercedes, Del Cáñamo, De la Mansión; each of these names has been given by the community in relation to their similarities, and others are honorific.

Múcura Island

  • Snorkeling: It is done every day from 9:30 am to 12 noon. In this tour people are taken to a beautiful reef.
  • Kayaking: You can do it with the tranquility of this turquoise sea, spend a moment of tranquility while contemplating the beauty that the island offers.
  • Ecological Hike: You can tour the island with a guide or you can do it alone, you can walk along the island and marvel at the nature that this little piece of land offers you.

Tintipan Island

You can also spend an afternoon on Tintipan Island, where you can snorkel and do some sport fishing.

———

If you want to come to Colombia contact us and plan your trip with us.

 References

About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Travel Guide to the “Ciudad Vanidosa”: Ciénaga, Magdalena, Colombia

Posted on by Frank59872

Ciénaga is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Colombia, it was the setting for the inspiration of the book One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

Walking through the streets, squares, and houses of Cienaga you can bring to life the characters and events that are narrated in the book.

Founded in 1751, its historic center, consisting of 76 blocks, was declared National Heritage in 1994. Ciénega was also declared a Heritage Town in 2012 for its history, culture, and architectural richness, which further boosted tourism.

Within its architectural heritage, you can find the Templete, the Chapel of the Santa Teresa School, the Old Railroad Station, the Church of San Juan Bautista, the Masonic Lodge, and the Casa del Diablo (House of the Devil).

At the cultural level, its main events are the Cienaguero Cayman Festival held every January 20th and the National Guitar Music Festival that pays tribute to Guillermo Buitrago every June.

Besides, Cienaga has the magic to make you travel back in time for its historical, architectural, urban, environmental, and social values. In this guide, you will receive the necessary information to make the most of your visit to this special heritage town.

Exploring Ciénaga

This town and its surroundings have gone through difficult situations of violence and armed conflict in the past. Today, ecotourism, cultural tourism, and community-based tourism are economic bets for the people of the region.

Ciénaga Magdalena is known as the “Ciudad Vanidosa” because it has an endless number of water mirrors around it that reflect its beauty from any point you look at it.

It is located in the department of Magdalena, 33 km from Santa Marta, on the shores of the Caribbean Sea, and next to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, at the northeastern end of the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta, a Ramsar area of Colombia and one of the biosphere reserves present in Colombia.

Ciénaga is wealth in water, with reserves coming from the Caribbean Sea, the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta, the Toribío and Córdoba rivers. It also has the hot springs Volcano, located in the village of Cordobita, just ten minutes from Ciénaga, which is the only hot spring in the Caribbean region.

The average temperature in Cienaga is between 23 ºC (73ºF) to 35 ºC (95 ºF) and the best time of the year to visit Lórica for hot activities is from mid-December to the end of February.

How to get to Cienaga Magdalena

  • Bogotá – Santa Marta– Cienaga

Take a 1,5-hours flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Simón Bolivar International Airport (SMR) at Santa Marta city. Once at in Santa Marta you take an approximately 40 – minutes ride (33 Km) to Cienaga Magdalena.

  • Bogotá – Barranquilla – Cienaga

Take a 1.5 hour flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Ernesto Cortissoz International  Airport (BAQ) in the city of Barranquilla. Once in Barranquilla, it takes approximately 1,5 – hours (72 km) to Cienaga Magdalena.

Where to stay in Cienaga Magdalena

Ciénaga has a low hotel demand but we recommend the hotel: Casa D’remedios La Bella Hotel Boutique.

Thanks to its proximity to the city of Santa Marta we recommend these hotels in the city:

  • Hotel Nueva Granada,
  • Oasis Fresh Hotel,
  • Placita Vieja Hotel Boutique,
  • Hotel Boutique Don Pepe and
  • Hotel Santorini Casablanca Santa Marta.

Attractions and Activities in Ciénaga, Magdalena

This beautiful town is a place where you can still breathe colonial air and where you can see the most beautiful landscapes due to its location at the foot of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.

Visit the Cienaga Grande, Biosphere Reserve of Humanity 

Ciénaga del Magdalena view from Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

It is possible to enjoy this beauty, thanks to a tour called The Tour of Nature, which allows you to visit all the rivers that are tributaries of the swamp complex which concentrates a large number of important species of flora and fauna.

Visit the Palafito Villages of the Ciénaga Grande

Here you will experience a cultural exchange with fishing communities on a trip that includes land and boat transportation. The palafito villages of the Ciénaga Grande de Santa Marta have colorful wooden houses, and canoes are a vital part of the landscape.

Nueva Venecia, Buenavista and Trojas de Cataca are the only palafit towns in Colombia. Their streets are made of water and can only be moved by canoe, the only bridge that exists connects the school and the church.

Nueva Venecia

It is a magical town on the water, where you can discover a different reality in the country, with a surprising lifestyle. To get there you must do it by the river, it takes approximately 2 hours from the point of Tasajera.

Walking through its streets in canoes you will be able to explore and get to know a new reality. This place has an infinity of species in flora and fauna; it has its own Flora and Fauna Sanctuary, a magical place to connect with nature.

Nueva Venecia is completely fluvial, amphibious, and palafitic. To cross the town, visit neighbors, go to the store or to the police station, you must necessarily go by canoe.

Cultural and Architecture Places

Ciénaga, Magdalena, Colombia. Photo by Edgardo Perez Diaz, CC BY-SA 4.0

Historic Center of Ciénaga

Touring the historic center is to marvel at the magical realism that inspired the Nobel Prize winner in literature to recreate Macondo, the splendor of its buildings, there are also corners and moments taken as if from a book. You can enjoy sunsets with shades of yellow, red, and orange painted in the sky.

The Santa Cruz de Papar Farm

This is one of the places you can’t miss, it will transport you to colonial times thanks to its architecture. It was a hacienda where sugar was planted and alcohol was produced for export.

Centenario Square

This square has an ecclesiastical style, giving it the shape of an eight-pointed star, designed by the French architect Eduardo Carpentie. You will also be able to appreciate four water fountains, donated by the Italian colony, bordering this square.

San Juan Bautista Church

It was built in 1612 at the request of the indigenous people of Ciénaga to the representatives of the Spanish crown. The walls of this church have stucco murals. According to historians, its construction lasted several decades, due to the multiple battles that plagued the town.

Municipal Palace

It has a republican style, it was built in four stages. Its plans were designed by the firm Parrish of Barranquilla. What stands out the most is its tones have varied between a strong yellow and white, color that is already established for the buildings that are the heritage of the country. What will impress you the most are its arches, wooden doors, and floor.

Ruins “Casa del Diablo”

It is a corner mansion with two floors and republican style, white facade with 14 Roman columns and crowned by a pediment with zither shapes, built by Manuel Varela.

Its name is due to the fact that the inhabitants of Cienaga say that every year Manuel Varela sacrificed a worker from his banana plantation to Satan as payment for the prosperity granted to him.

Despite being a possible myth, other versions speak of some 300 dead, and some estimate that there were thousands, a tragedy that remained in the history of Colombia as “The Massacre of the Banana Plantations”.

Gabriel García Márquez was also tempted by this myth and therefore also referred to this event, unreal or not, in his book One Hundred Years of Solitude.

References
About the Authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Travel Guide to Santa Cruz de Mompox, Mompós or the Land of God

Posted on by Frank59872

Mompox is one of the most beautiful heritage towns in Colombia and has one of the best-preserved historic centers in Latin America. Santa Cruz de Mompox or Mompós has the typical architecture of the Spanish Colony, with white facades and beautiful windows covered with wrought iron railings.

This architectural beauty, as well as its excel of conservation, led Mompox to be declared a National Monument in 1959 and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995.

When this town was built in 1540 it was an important port. With time it became isolated, and that allowed it to preserve its architectural heritage. It is the magical place that so often inspired our Colombian Nobel Prize winner Gabriel García Márquez.

It is also known as the first town of the Viceroyalty of the New Kingdom of Granada to give the cry of absolute Independence from Spain.

Santa Cruz de Mompox, the largest river island in Latin America, also holds in its streets a unique cultural treasure in Colombia. The Mompox Jazz Festival launched in 2012, enhanced the tourist vocation of the town, attracting travelers from around the world.

Below you will receive the necessary information you need to make the most of your visit to Santa Cruz de Mompox.

Exploring Santa Cruz de Mompox

Momopox is located in the department of Bolivar, 320 km from Cartagena by land. It is on the list of “Network of Colombian Heritage Towns” a place full of history and culture. Its name comes from the indigenous Malibu language, “Mompoj”, and since the XVIII century it is called Mompox or Mompós in the official documents of the country; it is also known as “La Tierra de Dios” i.e. The Land of God.

It is located in the Department of Bolivar, 248 kilometers from Cartagena, and is bordered by the municipalities of Magangué (Bolivar), Pinillos and San Fernando (Bolivar), Santa Ana, San Zeno, and San Sebastian de Buenavista (Magdalena), with the Magdalena River in between, and with the municipality of Talaigua Nuevo (Bolívar).

The average temperature in Santa Cruz de Mompox is between 23 ºC (73ºF) to 38 ºC (100 ºF) and the best time of the year to visit Mompós is from mid-December to the end of February.

How to get to Santa Cruz de Mompox

You can take a direct flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to San Bernardo Airport (MMP) at Santa Cruz de Mompox with a duration of 1,5 – hours.

Other alternatives to get to Mompox are:

  • Bogotá – Cartagena – Mompox

Take a 1,5-hours flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Rafael Nuñez International Airport (CTG) at Cartagena city. Once at in Cartagena you take an approximately 5,5-hours ride (273 Km) to Santa Cruz de Mompox

  • Bogotá – Sincelejo – Mompox

Take a 1,5-hours flight from El Dorado (BOG) in Bogotá to Las Brujas Airport (CZU) at Sincelejo city. Once in Sincelejo, you take an approximately 3-hours ride (148 Km) to Santa Cruz de Mompox.

Where to stay in Santa Cruz de Mompox

Bioma Hotel Boutique, Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia CC Bioma

In Mompox you can find several lodging options, among those are hotels that preserve the local architecture, we recommend:

Santa Cruz de Mompox Attractions and Activities

Historical and Cultural Activities in Mompox

In “La Tierra de Dios”, you will be able to appreciate the Andalusian architecture of the XVI century, considered one of the most precious cultural and historical jewels of the Caribbean.

The Culture House

It has civil architecture. It has been in operation since 1962, and keeps, as its director shows us, elements of the historical archive, antiques, works of Candelario Obeso, the black poet, and one of the maximum referents of the momposina culture, homemade swords, elements of tailoring of the time and indigenous crafts, among others.

Te Deum House

Its name comes from the Latin inscription that its owner Don Pedro Martinez de Pinillos placed on its façade: “Té Deum Lauda mus Te Dominum”. Renowned for its gardens and the huge sun tree in the middle of the courtyard, refuge of the howler monkeys, a species that moves around the city and emits a particular sound.

House of the Portals o the Marquesa de Torrehoyos

It is a group of houses (four) that is undoubtedly a permanent attraction in the city, is clearly distinguished by the portals or external gallery that runs along its facade and that prints an architectural character of its own and very different from the homogeneous silhouette of the city.

Rosario Cemetery Mompox, Bolivar, Colombia . Alcaldia Mompox, CC BY-SA 4.0

Mompox Rosario Cemetery

Usually, cemeteries are not tourist places but the cemetery of Mompox, along with that of Barichara, are among the most beautiful in Colombia.

A space full of cultural and historical heritage, besides having beautiful burial constructions and is inhabited by many cats. During the Holy Week season, it becomes the scene of the traditional serenade to the deceased.

San Anselmo Fort

Possibly it was built as a simple warehouse or deposit of merchandise. It is owned by an Austrian who, after sailing around the world in his sailboat, arrived and stayed in Mompox. At the next table, there are four old men, who with a slow coastal accent greet us, while they evoke, in a pleasant gathering, an epic Santa Cruz de Mompox.

Church of Santa Bárbara

It has a balcony that is undoubtedly the most impressive element. It is located in the square of Mompox, and it is also the place of legends among the locals.

Immaculate Conception Church

Built-in 1541 and despite having been rebuilt several times. In the interior you can notice several aspects, among others, the way the central nave was covered, using for it the armor of pair and knuckle.

Santo Domingo Church

It was built as a straw temple by the friars of the Dominican order, the first to preach the gospel in America. Years later its roofs were covered with bricks that remained useful until August 19, 1846, when it collapsed. Ten years later in 1856, the temple was restored.

San Francisco Church and Convent

This beautiful church is a clear example of momposina elegance, its walls are covered in red ochre in contrast with its white lines. A cultural jewel, worthy of knowing and appreciating.

San Juan de Dios Church

Built-in the XVII century. The church officiates on Holy Thursday, the mass for the sick and disabled to participate in the Momposina Holy Week.

Natural Attractions in Mompox

Mompos, Bolivar, Colombia. A town surrounded by swamps and rivers.

Pijiño Swamp

It is a backwater where different species of birds coexist, approximately 20, it is possible to find the white heron, the brown heron, the little brown heron, and also the kingfisher; in addition to the presence of reptiles.

This marsh has an area of approximately 1,350 hectares. Bird watching excursions are part of a program to show the world the richness of Colombia’s biodiversity and are promoted by the National Tourism Fund (Fontur) and the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Tourism.

Margarita Island

This island is located in the geographical situation called the Momposina depression, bathed by the waters of the Magdalena River, with the arms of Loba, Mompox, and Chicagua; and has an area of 2600 square kilometers.

The island is home to fish species such as barbudo, bocachico, mojarra amarilla and mojarra lora, and amphibians such as babillas, galapagos, turtles and otters. The flora is composed of cantagallo, mangrove, bell pepper, coquillo or cocuelo and campano.

If you want to come to Colombia contact us and plan your trip with us.

References
About the Authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Best 3 Sunflower Fields That You Can Actually Visit in Colombia

Posted on by Frank59872

The Sunflower (Helianthus annuus, the common sunflower) is worldwide known for its beauty and Vincent van Gogh paintings. The blooming of this beautiful flowers everywhere attracts many people to the so-called sunflower tourism.

Although they are treated as weeds, they fulfill an important function: their ability to grow in all types of environments and their resistance to drought allows them to invade degraded sites, where they detain the soil. Also, because they produce a lot of nectar, they attract numerous pollinators, such as bees. 

Origin of Sunflowers

Indigenous domestication

Sunflowers were domesticated by Mesoamerican Indian tribes, and are traditionally associated with pre-Columbian Mexican cultures. They were cultivated more for their usefulness than for their beauty.

However, the sunflower was used as a symbol representing the sun deity, primarily by the Aztecs and Otomies in Mexico and the Incas in Peru.

In 1532, Francisco Pizarro entered Peru, where he found a gigantic sunflower that the indigenous people of the Inca empire worshipped as a sacred image of the sun god. Then, gold figures of this flower, as well as seeds, were taken to Europe at the beginning of the 16th century.

Crops and Sunflower Tourism

Nowadays, their cultivation for oil extraction has been widespread in Spain since about 1980, thanks to subsidies from the European Economic Community. The same happens in the United Stated.

However, this is not the only appeal of sunflowers; the beauty of their fields attracts millions of tourists around the world.

Today there are sunflower fields on every continent, but the sunflower fields in Spain and Italy are the most famous for their unparalleled beauty.

The most beautiful sunflower fields in Spain are those found in the regions of La Bureba in Burgos, Cardejón in Soria, Carmona in Seville and Antequera in Malaga.

On the other hand, the most famous sunflower field in Italy is in the Tuscany region.

Sunflower Movement

Every day, sunflowers move towards the sun, following it on its east-west route. At night they move in the opposite direction, as if waiting for the sun to rise the next morning.

But one day they stop doing so, since when they reach maturity they stop their dance, do not turn again and remain oriented indefinitely towards the east until they die.

This movement, called heliotropism, is regulated by the circadian rhythm of the plants, and favors their growth.

And the truth is, it is not the flower that turns, it is the uneven growth of its stems that causes the turning. And when they stop growing, they stop turning.

That they stop is not entirely sad, since when they reach maturity, the plant is ready to be pollinated. The flowers release additional heat, which makes them more attractive to pollinating insects.

Find out more in the Science Report Circadian regulation of sunflower heliotropism, floral orientation, and pollinator visits: Sun-tracking when young, east-facing when mature, warmer sunflowers attract more pollinators.

Sunflower Tourism in Colombia

Research on sunflower cultivation in Colombia has been carried out since the late 1950s. But it was not until 1985 that the first sunflower field was planted for commercial production. The first crops were planted in Valle del Cauca, Tolima and Cesar.

In general, sunflower grows well in Colombia, from sea level to 2600 meter above sea level, so much so that today there are crops in Bogota. However, it was not until 2020 that some fields began to be used for tourism.

Today, there are several destinations where you can visit sunflower fields in Colombia, bu today I am goiong to talk about the most suitable for visit: San Martin, in the department of Meta, in the eastern plains of Colombia, Montes de Maria in the department of Bolivar, in the Colombian Caribbean region, and Valledupar in the department of Cesar, also part of the Caribbean region.

Sunflower Tourism in San Martin, Meta

Sunflower Tourism in San Martin de Los Llanos, Meta, Colombia CC @campodegirasolessm

The municipality of San Martin de los Llanos is located one hour from Villavicencio, capital of Meta. The annual sowing of sunflowers in a private plot of land in San Martín de los Llanos is the place that delights the visitor’s eyes with a minefield of this plant.

For more than five years, between the months of October and November, the sunflower crop blooms, and every year tourists are treated to the experience of walking among a crop of large and impressive sunflowers.

The tour starts at 10:00 in the morning or at 3:00 in the afternoon, from the municipality of San Martin with the indications of the authorized guides.

To get there you have to cross a 3-kilometer dirt road from San Martin; since it is private land, it is not permitted to indicate the exact location of the place.

Sunflower Tourism in Montes de María (or Serranía de San Jacinto), Bolívar

Sunflowers in San Jacinto, Bolivar, Colombia. Pic. by @yulart__

Between the departments of Bolívar and Sucre, in the Colombian Caribbean, is located the sub-region of Montes de María, a vast territory of agricultural and livestock tradition whose geographical location consolidated it as a corridor that connects a large part of the country with the Caribbean region and some of its main ports.

The Montes de María (also known as Serranía de San Jacinto) length does not exceed 110 km and its altitudes are less than 1,200 meters above sea level.

Montes de María, a Post-conflict Destination

The Montes de María area suffered from conflict for years, being a zone of FARC-EP guerrilla activity and paramilitary groups including the AUC. A particularly difficult period was in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

For years, this territory was forgotten, but now it is reappearing to conquer Colombians and foreigners with its beauty. In addition to the handicrafts, bagpipes and natural landscapes, there is a sunflower field, which has become another tourist attraction.

Tourism, entrepreneurship and sustainability

In the Sibar farm there is fish farming, chicken breeding and now, beekeeping that began to be generated thanks to the planting of these sunflowers.

It is an eco-efficient farm, where nothing is thrown away. The chicken feces (chicken manure) are used as fertilizer for the sunflowers. The flour from the sunflowers is fed to fish and chickens.

Bee Keeping Crops: The company AgroFrance sold the sunflower seeds to the farm owners

Sibar Farm and its Sunflower Fields

The idea arose as a result of the pandemic. Originally, it was a soy-based poultry feed manufacturing company. Due to the covid-19 pandemic, they came up with the idea of using sunflower meal as raw material for concentrate plants for cattle, sheep, swine, fish and poultry feed.

The company AgroFrance sold the sunflower seeds to the farm owners, and gave them technical assistance for planting, which is how the three-hectare sunflower field was born.

This sunflower variety produces grains with high protein, vitamin and fiber content, which have different uses for human consumption. These characteristics make this field even more special for tourists.

The field is located on the Sibar farm, on the outskirts of the municipality of San Jacinto, and very close to the Troncal de Occidente highway in the Montes de María.

Entering to contemplate the 180 thousand sunflowers has no cost. The only recommendation of the owner Alfredo Villadiego is that the visit is made with all the biosecurity protocols and without making noise because they can scare the bees!

Sunflower Tourism in Valledupar, Cesar

Sunflower Fields in Valledupar, Cesar, Colombia CC Publimetro.co

The cultivation of sunflower in the department of Cesar arose thanks to the union of several farmers. As in Bolivar, AgroFrance International distributed the seed to the local agricultural farmers.

The crops are located on the road that leads to the village of El Jabo, five minutes from Valledupar, at Finca La Esmeralda, and there are other fields distributed in the village of Los Venados, and in the municipality of Urumita in La Guajira.

Sunflower as an Alternative Crop

Sunflower cultivation in Cesar has become a planting alternative due to the scarce markets for rice, corn, cotton, sorghum, and other products, and it is a plant that does not require abundant water. Farmers in the area hope to harvest the grain to take it to agribusiness as oil or flour.

Bee sanctuary, therapeutic and tourist attractiveness

The harmonious and constant buzzing of bees accompanies this yellow feast, making it a sanctuary for bees. Thousands of bees arrive in swarms from the mountains to give life to the crops and help the pollination of this plant.

Some countries such as Germany, Austria, Denmark, Spain, Belgium, France and Greece must implant bee hives, artificially, due to the scarcity of this insect in these countries.

One of the owners of the crops has witnessed how hundreds of people come to appreciate these flowers, and for the landscape impact of 200 thousand sunflower plants framed under the silhouette of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, which for some resembles Swiss landscapes.

The fields have even been visited by several people with health problems to enjoy the beauty of the crop. In this way, they are contributing to the community.

Important Precautions When Visiting a Sunflower Field

  • You should wear appropriate footwear for the tour and the mud.
  • Avoid wearing strong perfumes before visiting, as they attract bees.
  • In addition, it is recommended not to run inside the field and it is forbidden to cut the sunflowers.

Remember, these places are especially for those who wish to enjoy nature.

If you want to know more about nature and agro-tourism destinations in Colombia do not hesitate in contact us or visit our Plan your trip page.

References
About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

The Colombian Red Howler Monkey Sanctuary Los Colorados, just 90 km from Cartagena

Posted on by Frank59872

Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary is the largest and most conserved area of dry tropical forest in the department of Bolivar, in the region of Montes de María, or Serranía de San Jacinto.

The sanctuary’s name alludes to the presence of the Colombian Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus), which live along with tamarin monkeys, deer, ocelots, sloths, and other mammals.

This is not a very well known destination among tourists, but it has all the necessary natural attractions to be a very good natural destination, and only 90 km from Cartagena!

Discovering Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Los Colorados FFS is located in the Colombian Caribbean, in the department of Bolivar, in the municipality of San Juan Nepomuceno. The sanctuary has an area of 10 km².

It contains a representative area of the largest tropical dry forest of the Montes de María or Serranía de San Jacinto, a geological formation isolated between the coastal plain of Bolívar and the savannas of Corozal and Sincelejo.

You will find a small mountain system, with several peaks such as La Cañada, El Escondido, San José, El Yayal, La Gervedera and Tamarindo de Mico.

The sanctuary is also an important provider of water to the region, and there are several mini reservoir built in the surroundings. Los Cacaos and Salvador are two small rivers which flow around the park, there are are also countless creeks that flow into these streams.

A Sanctuary for the Conservation of Tropical Dry Forest and Monkeys

It contains one of the best preserved relicts of dry forest in the region and is an important refuge for the organisms of this habitat, such as some primate and mammal populations.

Los Colorados FFS as an Important Bird Area

The Galeras FFS is an Important Bird Area (IBA/AICA) recognized by BirdLife International, since Globally threatened species and Restricted-range species are present in the area. It is also a feeding station for migratory birds and it has more than 280 reported bird species, 46 of which are migratory.

Archeological Importance

Within the sanctuary’s facilities you can visit places of great cultural importance such as ceremonial sites of local indigenous communities.

The Malibú Mokaná or Malibú Serraneros ethnic group inhabited this area in the past XVI century. You can see some archaeological vestiges found in the area of influence of the Sanctuary, such as ocarinas and petroglyphs, and also the well-known “centellas” stones.

The inhabitants of the region have established an important relationship with Los Colorados hill, impregnated with beliefs and cultural practices evident, for example, in the treatment given to medicinal plants.

How to get to Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

Bogotá – Cartagena – San Juan Nepomuceno

Take a 45- minutes flight from El Dorado Bogotá (BOG) to Rafael Nuñez International Airport (CTG) at Cartagena city.

From Cartagena take the road to Sincelejo passing through the towns of Turbaco, Arjona, Sincerin, El Viso, Malagana, San Cayetano and Carreto until you reach the municipality of San Juan Nepomuceno, 90 kilometers from Cartagena.

From there you can access the entrance road to the eastern side of the Sanctuary by motorcycle or vehicle (5 minutes) or walking (20 minutes) to the operational headquarters.

What to do in Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

The Sanctuary and surrounding area is an ideal destination for photography, bird watching, and enjoying the natural beauty and culture of the region.

Hiking 

As a visitor you can tour the mountain from east to west, through trails such as ‘El Yayal’ or ‘Planeta Bosque’, along the banks of Los Cacaos stream, paths to bring out the wild soul and become environmentally conscious.

You can visit the following tourist attractions within the sanctuary: Los Chivos waterfall, El Mirador, Los Cacaos stream, Escondido gully, Tigre’s cave, Piedra del Toro and Tinamú.

Planeta Bosque Trail

Planeta Bosque is an interpretative trail, which has a duration of 3 to 5 hours with a low degree of difficulty. It is ideal for bird watching.

Birdwatching 

The number of bird species recorded in the sanctuary is 152 species divided into 40 families. Among the species that you can see are:

  • Macaws (Ara macao, Ara chloropterus, Ara severus, Ara ararauna)
  • Guans (Penelope purpurascens)
  • Chachalacas (Ortalis ruficauda)
  • Red-throated caracara (Ibycter americanus)
  • Toucans (Ramphastos sulfuratus).
  • Black-crested antshrike (Sakesphorus canadensis)

Wildlife Tours

Los Colorados FFS is considered a great refuge for species characteristic of the local dry forests, there are records of more than 40 mammals. Among the species of mammals that can be seen are:

  • Alouatta seniculus
  • Saguinus oedipus
  • Bradypus variegatus
  • Choloepus hoffmanni
  • Pecari tajacu
  • Dasyprocta punctata
  • Leopardus pardalis
  • Leopardus wiedii
  • Potos flavus

The sanctuary is also the transitory habitat of the Jaguar (Pantera onca).

Los Colorados FFS has records of 29 amphibian species, 20 genera and 10 families, and 21 families of reptiles.

Where to stay in Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary?

Los Colorados FFS does not currently offer lodging services for visitors. But it is very close to the towns of San Juan Nepomuceno and San Jacinto where you can stay. Our recommendations for you are:

  • San Juan Nepomuceno: Hotel Malibu
  • San Jacinto: Bello Horizonte and Hostal las Palmas

Best time to visit Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

It is recommended to visit the park during the 2 dry seasons, between the months of December and April, and between July and August.

Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary Entrance fees

These are the entrance fees for 2021:

  • Los Colorados FFS has a single entrance fee of COP 6,500.
  • Children under 5 years old and Colombians over 65 years old have free admission upon presentation of their identity documents.

What to consider before visiting Los Colorados Flora and Fauna Sanctuary

  • You should wear long pants, t-shirt or long sleeve shirt and comfortable shoes. In the rainy season, we recommend marsh boots.
  • The entry of pets or domestic animals is prohibited.
  • The use of flash when taking photographs is prohibited.
  • Use of binoculars to watch animals’ behavior is recommended.
  • Bring along valid identification documents and health insurance.
  • It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you a personal first aid kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Colparques
  • Parques Nacionales
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Travel Guide to Macuira: The Cloud Forest Oasis in La Guajira Desert

Posted on by Frank59872


Macuira is a National Natural Park of Colombia considered an oasis in the desert of Alta Guajira, in the Caribbean region of Colombia. It is a very special place because it has the contrast between sea, desert and jungle.

The park, with 25,000 ha, was declared in 1977 to protect and conserve the Serrania de la Macuira, which reaches 864 meters above sea level. It is not as high as the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, but it has a very special particularity which is the presence of cloud forest very close to the Colombian Caribbean coast and surrounded by a vast desert.

This is why being in the Macuira you can go from the blue of the ocean, through the yellow of the desert, to the green of the jungle. Among the most important characteristics of the Serranía de Macuira is the presence of forested mountains which are the only source of fresh water in the dessert.

Find here why you should visit this beautiful destination in Colombia, the Macuira National Natural Park in La Guajira.

Discovering Macuira National Natural Park

In 1977 and by means of Executive Resolution Nº 149, the National Government created the Macuira National Park, located northeast of the Guajira Peninsula, in the mountain range of the same name.

In practice, it covers an area of 24,103 hectares, corresponding to a mountainous massif that forms the northernmost mountain range in South America, with elevations ranging from 100 to 867 meters above sea level approximately, the Serranía de la Macuira.

This national park, located in Nazareth, in the municipality of Uribia, is ideal for birdwatching, as some 140 bird species have been recorded there, 17 of which are endemic. In addition, the reserve has several forest ecosystems.

The Serranía de Macuira

Serranía de Macuira is composed of three main mountains: Cerro Palúa (865 m), Cerro Huaresh (852 m) and Cerro Jihouone (753 m), which rise from the desert plain. Another isolated hill within the park is Cerro Oriore. There are several freshwater streams, which disappear when they reach the sand dunes at the eastern base of the Sierra.

Picture of Serrania de la Macuira by Luis Pérez, Flickr Creative commons Licence

The main characteristic of the Macuira, which makes it unique in the world, is that it has an evergreen dwarf cloud forest, an ecosystem very similar to the Andean forests located in the páramos. It is an area of great environmental importance because this unique cloud forest ecosystem functions as a water regulator for the region.

The cloud forests themselves are located at altitudes above 2,700 meters above sea level, but in Macuira National Natural Park they can be seen at only 550 meters above sea level and very close to the sea. Definitely, this is a must to see scenery in the world.  It is an oasis in the middle of aridity that supports a great diversity of fauna and flora, especially adapted to survive, grow and reproduce in this type of environment.

Why is there a cloud forest in the Macuira?

The Serrania de la Macuira forms a geological barrier where humidity from the Caribbean Sea condenses, causing the formation of fog that penetrates the forest and creates a humid enclave in the middle of the desert.

This is because the region has a low rainfall and high temperatures, which when combined with the trade winds from the sea and saturated with moisture, rise to meet the barrier of the Serrania, which is why it forms cumulus clouds in the day and nimbostratus in the afternoon.

Traveling to Macuira, Alta Guajira, Colombia

Characteristics of the Macuira Park

Macuira NNP has a territorial area of 250 km², and is located in the extreme north of the department of La Guajira, northwest of the municipality of Uribia, neighboring the small villages of Puerto Estrella, Nazareth, Waretpa, Punta Espada, Siapana and Tawaira.

The are four ecosystems in the park: Dwarf Cloud Forest, Dry Evergreen Forest, Dry Deciduous Forest and Tropical Dry Forest. As mentioned before, this is the most significant rarity of the park, because it has similar conditions to those present below the Andean paramo line around 2,700 meters above sea level. The presence of a cloud forest amidst the desert makes it a unique landscape, a real oasis in La Guajira dessert.

Regarding the dry evergreen forest, It is located at an altitude between 250 and 550 meters above sea level, this allows trees to keep their leaves (foliage) despite possible climate changes. At lower altitudes, there is the Dry Deciduous Forest, located at an altitude between 50 and 400 meters above sea level.

Finally, the Tropical Dry Forest, in the desert plains, is an ecosystem with unparalleled diversity of plants and animals that are adapted to extreme conditions. This ecosystem contains the largest number of endemic species of flora and fauna in the park.

Macuira as an Important Bird Area (IBA)

The entire IBA corresponds to Macuira National Natural Park, created in 1977. The park safeguards endemic and migratory bird species, with a record of 140 bird species, seven of which are endemic subspecies. This is why it was declared an Important Bird Area (IBA), or AICA in Spanish, in Colombia and the world in 2003.

The park is also an especially important scenario within the cosmogony, mythology, social and cultural order of the Wayuu ethnic group.

Presence of Indigenous Communities in Macuira

The indigenous communities present in the department of Guajira are the Wayuú, of the Arawak linguistic family, who have occupied this sector for centuries. They are distributed in communities throughout Guajira, but the most important settlement are in Nazareth or Akuwai, northeast of Guarece Hill.

@Colombiafrank Sharing time with the Wayuu people in Alta Guajira, Colombia

The economy of these communities is based on grazing activities, artisanal fishing, handicrafts and seasonal agriculture. In addition, the organization of National Natural Parks offers work on an annual basis to a representative of each clan.

Wayuu Handicrafts, La Guajira, Colombia

Two clans out of 7 are selected annually to provide information and orientation to the sanctuary’s visitors with the support of a representative from the national natural parks in the city of Bogota.

Uribía, one of the nearest towns from Macuira, is the most important Wayuu town in La Guajira and is considered the indigenous capital of Colombia.

How to Get to Macuira National Natural Park

Macuira National Natural Park is located in the extreme north of the department of La Guajira, northwest of the municipality of Uribia, is adjacent to the villages of: Puerto Estrella, Nazareth, Waretpa, Punta Espada, Siapana and Tawaira. In addition, it is totally overlapped with the reservation of Alta and Media Guajira.

Traveling in La Guajira

To get to the park from Riohacha, you must go by land to the city of Maicao, then continue to the town of Uribia, and from there to Puerto Portete, a town located on the bay of the same name. From there, a dirt road leads to the town of Nazareth. This trip takes between 6 and 8 hours in a four-wheel drive vehicle, as long as the weather conditions are favorable.

From Bogotá

Take a 1-hour flight from El Dorado International Airport (BOG) Bogotá to Almirante Padilla International Airport (RCH) at Riohacha city. Once at the airport, take an approximately 1,5- hours ride to Uribia. Then, in Uribia you should take a 2-hours ride to Bahía Portete. Finally, once in Bahía Portete you should take an extra 6-hours ride to Nazareth.

What to do in Macuira National Natural Park

As a visitor to the park you can hike through the Serranía de Macuira, you can visit the indigenous Wayú cemeteries, or you can also find handicrafts made by the inhabitants of the region in the surrounding municipalities.

Hiking and Trekking

Hiking is the most exciting activity in Macuira National Natural Park. The park has hikes of different degrees of difficulty (low and medium), where you can appreciate dunes, natural pools and temporary streams.

If you want to make the ascent to the Macuira mountain range you must be clear that the degree of difficulty is high, so you must have good physical condition and endurance for long walks of 5 to 7 hours.

Birdwatching and Wildlife Observation

Within the 5 ecosystems of the park, there are 140 bird species recorded and that can be appreciated, 7 of which are endemic subspecies:

  • Scrub Greenlet (Hylophilus flavipes)
  • Pectoral sparrow (Arremon taciturnus fratruekis)
  • Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota)
  • Pale-breasted Thrush (Turdus leucomelas)
  • Red-legged honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus)
  • Buff-breasted Wren (Cantorchilus leucotis)
  • Rufous-vented chachalaca (Ortalis ruficauda)

Additionally, 10 of the species are reported to be migratory.

Besides birds, there are a significant number of insects at the Park, as well as a notable presence of amphibians (toads and frogs), iguanas, snakes and mammals, such as the White-fronted capuchin (Cebus albifrons), ocelot (Felis pardalis) and Jaguarundi (Herpailurus yagouaroundi).

Where to stay in Macuira National Natural Park

Macuira National Natural Park does not currently offer lodging for travelers. It is possible to stay in the nearby “rancheria” of Nazaret. In the rancheria of Nazaret there are 2 camping areas called Villa Inmaculada and Emerrare.

Rancherias in La Guajira

Moreover, if you wish to spend a night in a traditional Wayú ranchería, the village also offers a night full of tradition with the locals of the sector.

If you want to rest in a hotel we recommend: Hotel Mulamana

Best time to visit Macuira National Natural Park

Dry season starts at the beginning of December until late of March with weather around 30º C (86 ºF). In the higher parts of the Macuira mountain range there are persistent winds and in the lower parts the temperatures are higher and the humidity increases.

Macuira National Natural Park Entrance fees

The park does not currently charge admission fees, but visitors must register at the park’s facilities and stay for a defined period of time.

What to consider before visiting Macuira National Natural Park

  • Currently access to the cloud forest is not allowed, as it is a very fragile ecosystem and highly valued by the Wayuu people.
  • The ranchería of Pusheo is the only restaurant in the sector, since the distances are very long and it is necessary to buy enough food for the trips.
  • You should always travel accompanied by a Wayuu driver and/or guide with a good command of Wayunaiki and Spanish, as well as knowledge of the communities of Alta Guajira.
  • For tours inside Macuira National Park, a local Wayuu guide authorized by the park must be hired.
  • The use of flash when taking photographs is prohibited.
  • Use of binoculars to watch animals’ behavior.
  • Bring along valid identification documents and health insurance.
  • Be vaccinated against yellow fever, tetanus and covid-19.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you a personal first aid kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Colparques
  • Parques nacionales
About the authors

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

San Andres Travel Guide: The Most Beautiful Archipelago in the World

Posted on by Frank59872


Welcome to Colombia! This is a specific travel guide on how to enjoy the most beautiful archipelago in the world, the Archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina.

The archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina has the perfect location to enjoy one of the most diverse places in the world, with endless marine fauna and wildlife all covered by a sea of 7 colors that will make you fall in love.

A little bit of Archipelago San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina history

San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina were occasionally inhabited by the Miskito Indians, an indigenous group of Central America, before colonial times. They came to have a state of their own under the protection of the British Empire.

The following settlers of the islands brought with them the Protestant religion, becoming a fundamental element of the communities. They also introduced new species of flora and fauna as well as slaves from Africa.

Spaniard Colonization

In 1510 the archipelago came into Spanish possession, but they did not establish any settlements, since the continental area was more important to the Spanish crown; back then San Andres was under the jurisdiction of the Royal Audience of Panama.

In 1544 the Spanish Crown decided to hand over the administration of the archipelago to the jurisdiction of the General Captaincy of Guatemala.

English Colonization

Only until 1629 and 1630 European and English colonists settled in Santa Catalina and Providencia. Captain Morgan (Henry Morgan), settled in the archipelago from 1670 to 1680, turning it into his base of operations.

Tomas O’Neill presented the request to the crown to assign the archipelago under the Viceroyalty of Nueva Granada. The request was accepted and signed on November 20, 1803, and a royal decree was assigned and named the archipelago of San Andres.

In 1822 the archipelago became part of the province of Cartagena, but in 1912 San Andres and Providencia were separated from the department of Bolivar becoming an independent province of Colombia’s territory.

Colombia vs. Nicaragua

On May 5, 1930, Colombia and Nicaragua signed the Esguerra-Bárcenas treaty which established the sovereignty of Nicaragua over the Mosquito Coast and Colombia over the archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina.

The archipelago became a free port during the government of Gustavo Rojas Pinilla in 1953, transforming the island into a commercial and touristic point.

After that time, in 1991, under the new constitution, the archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina was declared as one of the 32 departments of Colombia.

Seaflower Biosphere Reserve

Finally, in 2001 UNESCO declared the archipelago a Biosphere Reserve calling it Seaflower. Know more about the biospheres reserves of Colombia in our entry Next Travel Ideas? Visit the Biosphere Reserves of Colombia.

Raizal People is the Main Population in San Andres Islands

The Raizal People

Today the islands are inhabited by the Raizal people. To avoid confusion with the denomination of “natives” given to the indigenous people, they are called “raizales” and are the product of the miscegenation between indigenous, Spanish, French, English, Dutch and Africans.

The British culture, which was the strongest colonizer of the Caribbean islands, is the predominant one in San Andres and among the Raizales.

However, the Raizal culture has its own cultural expressions: the Baptist religion, Creole language and its oral tradition that reflects the African roots of the majority of the population represented in the stories and tales for children.

The raizales of San Andres Colombia use English and Creole as their main language, although Spanish is becoming more and more common.

Where is the Archipelago San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina located?

The archipelago is located in the western Caribbean Sea on the Atlantic Ocean in Central America and is 775 km away from the Atlantic coast of Colombia. It is the only insular department.

The archipelago is made up of the islands of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina. Additionally, it is formed by cays and islets located on the volcanic platform to the west of the Antillean Sea.

About the weather, in the archipelago, you can enjoy a humid climate with temperatures between 25° and 31 ° C° (77° and 88° F°), and a high humidity between 82%.

How to get to the archipelago San Andrés, Providencia, and Santa Catalina?

The archipelago has 2 airports, one on the island of San Andres and the other one on the island of Providencia.

Bogota – San Andres island

Take a 1.5 hours flight from Bogotá, El Dorado International Airport (BOG) to Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (ADZ) at San Andres Island.

Before 2020’s COVID pandemic, entering the island required a fee of COP 116,800; and children under 7 do not need to purchase the card. At present, there is no fee applicable to enter the archipelago San Andrés, Providencia y Santa Catalina until 2025.

San Andres – Providencia and Santa Catalina

If you wish to visit the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina yous will take a 30-minutes flight from Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (ADZ) at San Andres Island to El Embrujo Airport (PVA) in Providencia Island.

There is also the possibility of reaching the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina by taking a 4-hour trip in katamaran to Providence Island.

What to do in Archipelago San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina?

Firstly, the best time to visit the archipelago of San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina is during the dry season, in the months of April, May, November, and December.

San Andres island

To visit the places below on the island of San Andres you can rent a motorcycle and make the trip along a 15 km road that connects each one of these locations.

Johnny Cay, San Andrés

Sound Bay Beach, San Luis

This is a white sandy beach located in the neighborhood of San Luis, far from the crowded areas of the island. San Luis still preserves its wooden houses, and there you will find restaurants and bars that are run by locals.

Bahia Sardina

This is the most important commercial beach on the island, with crystal clear waters and a pedestrian path of 2 km. It is very close to the airport as well as being the place with most restaurants, hotels, and duty-free stores on the island. From this point, it is possible to see the islet of Johnny Cay.

Cocoplum Bay & Rocky Cay

this beach is connected to Rocky Cay and it’s full of famous local restaurants. Rocky Cay natural pool is also a nice plan to consider taking a swim. Moreover, it is a good place to practice snorkeling.

Bengue’s Place & Charquitos Beach

These beaches are in the south area of the island, they have crystal clear waters and a wonderful wall of reefs which creates a quiet natural pool not affected by the waves.

Johnny Cay

Johnny Cay is an islet that is also a regional park of the island of San Andres. To reach this point you must take a boat and make a journey of 7 minutes. The beach here is characterized by its white sand, and the place is adorned by the presence of a large number of palm trees and iguanas. Bear in mind that there are no ATMs so that any and all must be in cash. One way trip from San Andres costs COP 8,000.

The Aquarium & Haynes Cay 

The name of the aquarium is Rose Cay, while you are in the aquarium facilities you can take walks on sandbanks in the middle of the sea. From the aquarium, you can walk to Haynes Cay on the sandbanks.

Mangle Old Point Park

This is another regional park of San Andres. It is a sanctuary of flora and fauna located in Hooker and Haynes bays near the center of San Andres island. The tour can be done by kayak through the mangrove system inhabited by mussels, crabs, iguanas, and lizards, as well as endemic and migratory birds.

Ecoparque West View & La Piscinita

Both parks are located in the west of the island. There are no beaches but natural pools between stone cliffs, an ideal place for snorkeling throughout their crystal clear waters.

Local people have the opinion that La Piscinita is the most beautiful place to snorkel in San Andres.

La Loma

This neighborhood is one of the most traditional of the island, where you can learn about local customs and traditions as well as visit the first Baptist church in Latin America, built-in 1847. The entrance fee is COP 10,000 and when visiting the bell tower the panoramic view of the entire island and the “sea of 7 colors” is worth the visit.

Casa Isleña Museum

This is a house of more than 100 years of construction where you can learn about the Raizal people and the pirate attacks that the island had in the past.

Big Pond Lagoon

In the center of the island, it is possible to find this freshwater lagoon that is home to caimans, iguanas, and turtles. Around the lagoon, you will find trees typical of the island.

San Andrés Botanical Garden

In the facilities of the National University of Colombia near the San Luis sector, you can find the San Andrés Botanical Garden. There you will learn about the flora present on the island, during the tour you will also see iguanas, birds, and lizards that live in the garden. The entrance fee to the garden is 3,000 COP.

Blow Hole & Morgan’s Cave

There is a small geyser known as the blowhole, very famous among visitors. In the blowhole there the seawater protrudes into the air through a natural hole in the coral reaching a maximum height of 20 meters. A small grotto is known as the place where the pirate Henry Morgan hid his treasures during his stay on the island. The entrance fee is COP 10,000.

Providencia Island

Bear in mind that in Providencia you can rent a bicycle, a motorcycle, or a golf cart to move around the island if you do not want to walk.

Bridge of Lovers, Providencia and Santa Catalina Islands, Colombia

The Peak

Is the highest hill on the island at 360 meters above sea level and 4.6 km away from the airport. The average time to the top is approx. 50 minutes. From this point, you can appreciate the “sea of 7 colors” and the island’s Coral barriers.

Bridge of Lovers

It is a colorful floating bridge that joins the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina, crossing the Aury channel. This wooden footbridge is 180 meters long and it is said that at this point couples gather to contemplate the sunset.

Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

This protected area is the only insular one in Colombia. It is responsible for protecting and preserving the flora and fauna of the archipelago which has the third-largest coral reef barrier in the world.

At the park, you can learn about the fauna and flora available in the archipelago in addition to making tours through the mangrove systems. It is also possible to do scuba diving and snorkeling activities. From the highest point of the island, you can have a wonderful view and enjoy the sunset.

Know more about this beautiful national park of Colombia in our entry Unique destination in the Colombian Caribbean: Old Providence McBean Lagoon Park.

Cangrejo key

This small island is part of the Old Providence McBean Lagoon NNP, it does not have a beach but it is an ideal place to appreciate the marine flora and fauna in diving and snorkeling activities. From the highest point of the island, you can have a wonderful view and also enjoy the sunset. The entrance fee is of cop 35,000.

Playa Manzanillo

The inhabitants of the island say that this is the most beautiful beach of Providencia, it has an extension of 300 meters. The beach has only one restaurant but at night it is possible to have bonfires on the beach.

Southwest bay

Is the longest beach on the island with white sand and crystal clear waters. On Saturdays, you can enjoy a horse race performed by the natives as well as enjoy local food.

Almond beach

This is an ideal place for snorkeling.

Santa Catalina Island

Morgan’s Head

This is a small hill that is a 25-minute walk at the end of the Bridge of Lovers through a paved track. The view from this point is magical to appreciate the sunset.

Fort Warwick

This is the most visited place on the island for the vegetation that can be seen in addition to enjoying the sea breeze.

Where to Stay in Archipelago San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina?

Staying in San Andres, Providencia, and Santa Catalina

San Andres Island

San Andres Island offers a wide variety of accommodations. Our recommended options for you to stay in are Solare SAI Ecohotel and Casa Harb Hotel Boutique.

Providence Island

Providence Island offers a wide variety of accommodations. Our recommended options for you to stay in are Deep Blue Hotel and Cabañas Agua Dulce.

Santa Catalina Island

On Santa Catalina Island it is not possible to find accommodations, so visitors should stay on Providence Island.

Things to Bear in Mind

  • The island’s dry season is between the months of December and late May.
  • Consider wearing personal protective items (sunscreen, sunglasses, towel, insect repellent, trainer shoes, and hat).
  • The use of flash when taking photographs is prohibited.
  • The use of binoculars to admire animals’ behavior is recommended.
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance.
  • It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you in a personal first aid kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering, or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, littering cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, doing drugs, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Ministerio de Cultura, Colombia
  • San Andres Island Website
About the authors

Luisa Martin
Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism-environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Unique destination in the Colombian Caribbean: Old Providence McBean Lagoon Park

Posted on by Frank59872

Old Providence McBean Lagoon Park is the only National Natural Park, of the 59 in Colombia, located in the insular Caribbean and is part of the Seaflower Man and Biosphere Reserve, established by UNESCO in 2000. Know more about the biosphere reserves of Colombia in our entry Next Travel Ideas? Visit the Biosphere Reserves of Colombia.

In this blog I offer you a brief review about everything you need to know before visiting Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park in the Colombian Caribbean.

Discovering Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

This protected area in unique and is the only one in the insular oceanic Caribbean of Colombia. It is located northwest of the island of Providencia archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina. The park has an extension of about 9,95 km² of land area of which 9,05km² are marine area.

The small part of its land area is known as Iron Wood Hill, which has the second largest barrier reef in the Caribbean, after Belize, protecting the coasts of the island of Providencia. Thanks to the large coral reef in this area, its waters turn from a dark blue to a translucent turquoise blue; that is why it is known as “the Sea of 7 colors“.

Ecosystems at Old Providence McBean Lagoon

The park has 4 ecosystems of the archipelago that can be appreciated during the traveler’s visit: mangrove forests, coral formations, seagrass meadows and a small extension of dry forest.

Dry forest

This is a typical tropical dry forest distributed between 0-100 meters above sea level, the extent of this ecosystem in the park is 4.96 km².

Mangrove

Mangroves are coastal tree formations with adaptations to filter saltwater flow. In the lower part of the McBean micro-cave it is possible to appreciate the mangroves with an extension of 4.07 km².

SeaGrass Beds

These are formations of phanerogams capable of carrying out their life cycle submerged in saline waters. In the Iron Wood Hill and McBean Mangrove sectors there is an area of 5 km² of these seagrasses.

Coral Reefs

These are communities made up of stony or hard corals, algae, octocorals and sponges. The park has coral formations in the reef lagoon and lagoon terrace occupying an area of 13.43 km² or 90.4% of the total protected area. The protection of the coral reefs were the main reason to declare the park as a protected area.

Thus, the park has been part of the Special Management Area of the Archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina since 1996, the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve since 2000 and the Seaflower Marine Protected Area of the Archipelago since 2004.

How to get to Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

Bogotá-San Andres Island

Take a 1,2- hour flight from Bogotá to Gustavo Rojas Pinilla International Airport (ADZ) at San Andres Island. Once at the airport, tienes dos opciones para llegar al parque:

1. Take an extra 4-hour katamaran to Old Providence Mc Bean Lagoon.
2. Take a 30- minutes flight to El Embrujo Airport (PVA)

What to do in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

It has a 32-kilometer coral barrier reef and a small hill known as Iron Wood Hill. In this protected area, where there is a 48-hectare dry forest, you can go hiking, diving, snorkeling and bird watching, among other activities. The islanders limit construction and are owners of the entire hotel offer, to reduce the environmental impacts of tourism, a task they do hand in hand with travelers who know this natural wonder.

Diving and snorkeling

The park has 2 authorized dive sites with a maximum depth of 12 meter: Crab Cay and White Shoal (Hippie’s Place). There is a variety of reef species of wonderful colors and shapes for these activities. The transparency of its waters will leave you speechless, and the range of colors that you will be able to appreciate goes from deep blue to translucent sea water.

Among the species that can be observed are: Groupers, Chermas, anemones, mollusks, echinoderms and fish. The most important feature is the barrier reef, one of the largest in the world!

This not only gives it a permanent ecological importance, but also gives its waters an amazing aspect, making you able to see species with the naked eye without special equipment.

Corals of Peace, Diving with Purpose

Corales de Paz is a local foundation devoted to the conservation and research around the coral reefs in San Andres And Providencia. In 2020, it won with its initiative Seaflower Meaningful Diving (SMD) one of the most important awards recently offered for the reactivation of nature tourism in Colombia (Know more about in our entry The Top Post-Covid-19 Destinations for Conservation Lovers in Colombia).

Seaflower Meaningful Diving – Natural Wealth Award

“Seaflower Meaningful Diving, Diving with Purpose”, is focused on promoting collaboration between islanders, fishermen and tourists to fund projects for education, conservation, restoration and management of coral reefs in the Archipelago of San Andres, Providencia and Santa Catalina, through e-learning courses, complemented with gamification, allowing people to start their diving experience and preparation from home.

In the destination, travelers will be able to dive with Green Fins certified operators (as responsible and environmentally friendly dive operators), and receive the Reef Check EcoDivers (participatory coral monitoring) and/or the Reef Repair Divers (participatory coral reef restoration) certificates.

The first results of this project will be seen in 2022, so get ready!

Seaflower Meaningful Diving is the result of a strategic alliance between three organizations: the Corales de Paz Foundation, the local tour operator specialized in diving Paradis de Colors and the engineering and technological innovation company DeepCo.

Land and Maritime Hiking

Hiking is an exciting activity in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park. You can hike only 1 trail: Iron Wood Hill. The round trip is about 3 km and medium degree of difficulty. During the tour it is possible to appreciate the mangrove and dry forest ecosystems along with the park’s terrestrial fauna.

Kayaking is also available at the park’s permitted sites: Crab Cay, White Shoal, Okay Point Land Trail dock at Iron Wood Hill and McBean Mangrove Land Trail overlook dock.

Birdwatching

According to the PROAVES and McNish registry, the park has 179 bird species, of which more than 156 are migratory. There are 22 locally registered marine species and 21 shorebirds; during the winter season, the number of birds in the park is reduced.

The archipelago has an endemic bird, the San Andrés Vireo (Vireo caribaeus) locally called Chincherry.

According to Proaves, San Andres is an important step area for migratory birds, and as part of the Biosphere Reserve “Seaflower”, in it was declared as an Important Bird Area -IBA by Birdlife in 2005.

Wildlife Observation

On the island it is possible to identify more than 2 species of bats, one of the most representative is the Jamaican fruit bat (Artibeus jamaicensis). There are 2 species of snakes Boa or Bowla (Boa constrictor), and the Black Blind Snake (Leptotyphlops goudotii spp. magnamaculata).

Only one type of amphibian, the Bolivian toad-frog (Leptodactylus bolivianus, synonym L. insularis), has been recorded around the park.

Black crabs or zombie crabs (Gecarcinus ruricola), which inhabit scattered stones throughout the park, are appreciated by visitors and are also part of the island’s economy, both for local consumption and for export to San Andres Island.

Where to stay in Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

The park does not have lodging but you can stay on the islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina.

Providence Island offers a wide variety of accommodations. Our recommended options for you to stay in are:

  • Crab Cay Boutique Lodge
  • Cabañas Agua Dulce.

Best time to visit Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

The park can be visited all year round, the dry months are from January to late June.

Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park Entrance fees

The entrance fee varies depending on the nationality and age of the visitors. These are the entrance fees for 2021:

  • Colombians, resident foreigners and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru (ages 5 to 25): COP 5,500
  • Colombians, resident foreigners and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru (over 25 years old): COP 11,500
  • Non-resident foreigners (over 5 years old): COP 19,000
  • Children under 5 years old and Colombians over 65 years old have free entrance presenting their IDs.

What to consider before visiting Old Providence McBean Lagoon National Natural Park

  • Try to collaborate with the conservation objectives of the area and be careful with the environment.
  • When snorkeling or scuba diving, stay away from coral reefs, avoid touching or breaking them, corals are very fragile and take a long time to grow.
  • Avoid buying handicrafts made with shells, corals, and/or animal, vegetable or mineral elements.To take any of the tours inside the park you must hire an authorized and certified guide.
  • Consider wearing personal protective items (sunscreen, sunglasses, towel, insect repellent, and hat).
  • Recommended the use of binoculars to admire animals’ behavior and beauty in their natural habitat.
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance. It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Colparques
  • Colombia travel
  • EcuRed
  • Corales de Paz
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.

Sara Colmenares

The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.

Travel Guide to El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

Posted on by Frank59872

Meet the most iconic marine life paradise in Colombia, the El Rosario, and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park. On the Caribbean coast of Colombia close to the coastal areas of the provinces of Bolívar and Sucre, and part of the jurisdiction of Cartagena, you will find the archipelago of El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park.

This archipelago is formed by 40 small islands, and it was declared a National Natural Park to protect the population of coral reefs and mangroves that are found in this area.

The crystal-clear waters and white beaches welcome those who visit the park to experience a large variety of flora and fauna. At the Rosario and San Bernardo islands, water activities such as canoeing, snorkeling, and diving are all must-do activities.

Discovering El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

With an area of 1,200 square kilometers, the park has an underwater set of ecosystems that give life to the largest coral platform in the Colombian Caribbean. Thus, the park is host to the largest coral reef formations in Colombia. The three ecosystems you can find in the park are:

Coral reefs

These are the essential ecosystem that provides food and shelter for approximately 25% of the marine fauna present in the area.

Coral reefs, as in the rest of the world, are very vulnerable and need crystal waters, light, and stable substrates that do not affect their composition. The ideal temperature should be between 25º C (77º F) and 31º C (86ºF).

At San Bernardo, they take an area of 191.68 square kilometers, approximately 72% of the total amount of coral reefs in Colombia.

Mangroves

This marine-coastal ecosystem, formed by trees of different sizes with roots that protrude from the mud, is a powerful filter of salty water. Mangroves are by far the most productive ecosystem in these areas and an important source of flora and fauna resources.

More than 60% of the world’s tropical fish depend on this ecosystem for their survival. The park has four species of mangrove worth preserving:

  • Red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle),
  • White mangrove (Laguncularia racemosa),
  • Buttonwood or button mangrove (Conocarpus erectus); and
  • Black mangrove (Avicennia germinans).

Coral reefs and mangroves are also a powerful natural barrier to tsunamis and hurricanes.

Seagrass

The park has 30.35 square kilometers of sea pastures, serving as a food provider and shelter for several marine species.

Pastures depend on calm waters between 20 and 30 meters deep for their survival. This allows the circulation of nutrients that benefit them as well as the species that depend on them.

In the park, the most common seagrass species is the Turtle grass (Thalassia testudinum), providing firmness to the bottom of the ground where they live.

How to get to El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

From Cartagena

When you arrive at Rafael Nuñez International Airport (CTG) take approximately 15 minutes to ride to the “La Bodeguita” dock (8 km). In “La Bodeguita” is necessary to take a boat trip of 2 hours to reach the facilities of the park in the archipelago of Our Lady of the Rosary (Nuestra Senora del Rosario).

From Santiago de Tolú

Take a 50 minutes flight from Bogotá to Las Brujas Airport (CTG) at Sincelejo city. From Sincelejo take an approximately 45 minutes ride to Santiago de Tolú (40 km).

Once at Santiago de Tolú is necessary to take a 1-hour boat trip to reach the facilities of the park in the archipelago of San Bernardo.

What to do in El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

Diving and snorkeling

The underwater trails of Punta Brava and Luis Guerra in Isla Grande and Isla Tintipan are perfect for sea diving or snorkeling. A supervised company by authorized instructors is highly recommended.

We recommend staying within delimited marked areas.

Diving tours in the Rosario Islands, Cartagena ©https://divingplanet.org/

Sailing in the mangroves

The natural aquatic-terrestrial path of Isla Grande, the Lagoon of Silence, an ideal place to take photos and videos.

Help support Cangrejos Azules, the entity in charge of organizing ecotourism in the area with the help of local communities at Islas del Rosario.

Wildlife Observation

In the protected area it is possible to see 62 species of corals, including the blade fire coral (Millepora complanata), the thin leaf lettuce coral (Agaricia tenuifolia), and the massive starlet coral or round starlet coral (Siderastrea siderea).

In the case of decapod crustaceans, there are 153 species; mollusks with 244 species. No less than 153 species of echinoderms; 199 species of sponges and 513 species of fish.

Coral Reef Fishes at natural national park Corales del Rosario y de San Bernardo. Ph. ©Parques Nacionales

Finally, it is possible to find sea turtles such as the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), the green sea turtle (Chelonia mydas), and the critically endangered hawksbill sea turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata).

Bird Watching

Within the park, it is possible to identify more than 60 species of birds. 31 of which are seabirds, including cormorants, gulls, frigates, and pelicans. There are also colonies of herons and ibis.

Where to stay in El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

It is possible to find different accommodations. Suggested choices are:

  • Hotel Las Islas, a luxury ecolodge in Baru.
  • Coralina island is the perfect place to relax, in Isla Grande.
  • Gente de Mar Resort, Location, and service are exceptional, in Isla Grande.
  • Hotel San Pedro de Majagua, the staff is wonderful, and the rooms excellent, in Isla Grande.
Las Islas Hotel – Barú, Cartagena

Best time to visit El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

The dry season that starts December until late March is the best to visit El Rosario and San Bernardo islands. It is also the peak season for national tourists, so be aware the place must be crowded.

Entrance fees

The entrance fee varies depending on the nationality and age of the visitors. These are the entrance fees for 2021:

  • Colombians, foreigners holding a valid residence permit, and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador, and Peru (ages 5 to 25): COP 9,500
  • Colombians, foreigners holding a valid residence permit, and tourists from Bolivia, Ecuador, and Peru (over 25 years old): COP 9,500
  • Children under 5 and Colombians over 65 years old have free entrance provided they present their identification cards.

What to consider before visiting El Rosario and San Bernardo Corals National Natural Park

  • Guided tours must be taken with authorized and certified tourist guides
  • Consider wearing personal protective items (sun blocker, sunglasses, towel, insect repellent, and hat).
  • The use of flash when taking photographs is prohibited.
  • use of binoculars to admire animal behavior and beauty in their natural habitat is recommended
  • Carry valid identity documents and health insurance.
  • It is recommended to be vaccinated against yellow fever and tetanus.
  • If you take specific medications, take them with you. It’s never enough to carry a personal medicine kit.

Some prohibitions

Feeding, bothering, or hunting animals, alcoholic drinks and drugs, throwing cigarette butts, burning garbage, felling, and capturing wildlife.

References
  • Colparques Website
  • Parques Nacionales Website
About the authors

Luisa Martin

Engineer, world traveler, amateur photographer, traveling blogger, and foody.