Discover the gateway to the Colombian Amazon, the city of Mitú on the banks of the Vaupes River
Mitú, the capital of the department of Vaupés, located between 50 to 120 minutes by plane from Bogotá, is the ideal destination to immerse yourself in the depths of the jungle, where birds, nature, and ancestral culture allow you to leave aside the daily routine of modern life.
This is a unique destination, where the distance and the little communication with the rest of the country, has made it possible to maintain a large part of the culture and nature of the region.
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The Ethnic Richness of Mitu
About 70% of the territory has been declared as an indigenous reserve, and for this reason, visitors and access must have the permission of the indigenous leaders.
Mitú has a population that is mostly part of ancestral indigenous tribes such as the Tukano, Guananos, Yurutíes, Cubeos, Piratapuyos, Desanos, and many others. There are 26 communities in total, and about 29 dialects, which represents the amazing ethnic richness in this region of Colombia.
The Vaupes River is the connector of these communities. People move in boats and canoes transporting local people, agricultural products, merchandise, and tourists.
Get to know Mitú
It is a simple and small city, located on the banks of the Vaupés River, surrounded by freshwater streams and the thick Amazon jungle.
When you arrive in the city, you can stroll through the main square Parque Santander, where you will find the Governor’s Office, the María Inmaculada Cathedral and the monument to the “Guio”, which pays homage to the origin of the indigenous peoples who live there. Guio means anaconda.
In this square, it is common to find food, handicrafts, and the typical gastronomic offer of the region.
The Fabio Alberto Leon Bentley Airport is the main gateway for travelers arriving to discover the territory. The Satena airline is the only one with flights to Mitu from Bogota or Villavicencio.
Places to Enjoy in Mitu
The trip to Mitú is ideal if you like bird watching. In Vaupes you will find more than 570 bird species, which offer a unique spectacle. Local guides specialized in the subject will give you all the information about the birds that you can find in the city.
Find more information about birding in Vaupes in our entry Vaupes, a Must to Visit Birding Destination in the Colombian Amazon.
It is also possible to walk along special trails outside the city center to enjoy a wide variety of species, not only birds but also flora and different types of animals, always accompanied by local guides.
To visit these places, you will have to access the territory of the communities, and you can only do so if you have permission from the leader of the community and if you are accompanied by a local guide.
The Malecon
The Malecon has a pedestrian walkway that runs one kilometer along the Vaupes River. It has small squares and kiosks adorned with gardens of local vegetation, where many birds arrive.
The Food Market and Port
This is a very rustic square, located next to the river where you can find typical food of the region prepared by the hands of indigenous women in wood and charcoal stoves. Here you can enjoy traditional dishes for very cheap prices.
There are about 15 food stalls where you can find “borugo en caldo”, “lapa”, fish, cassava, manioc, among other foods provided by the jungle. The natives take advantage of the permitted hunting seasons to obtain the animals to eat.
Around this place, indigenous gather to offer many kinds of products. Every Friday, people from different communities arrive in the place, bringing their products to sell in the market. It is possible to find cassava flour, casabe, pichuna grapes, quinapira, copoazu, fish, and reptiles that are used as food.
Hiking and River Trips in Vaupes
There are trails for hiking and river trips that will take you to the indigenous communities, open to tourists with their ancestral vision of the birds and other animals of the region.
Hiking Routes Around Mitu
The ecological walks established around the city have as a special destination different high hills, or tepuis, from where we suggest you to observe the jungle that expands from and towards the river.
Mituseño Urania
Five kilometers from the city you can visit the Mituseño Urania community. It is a small village with two important sacred places: the chair of the god Cubay and the hill of Urania.
The Odocabeba (Urania) Hill, is a rocky outcrop 200 meters high, where you will observe the jungle, and share the day with the Cubeo indigenous people, owner of this beautiful viewpoint of the jungle.
You will also visit the territory of the Cubeo’s god Cubay, and a rock traditionally called the “Silla de Cubay” from where, according to legend, the deity observes the jungle.
Once you reach the top, you will find a jungle landscape crossed by the waters of the Vaupes river that carries small boats with goods and tourists in the middle of the jungle.
Ceima Cachivera
6 kilometers from Mitú is the Ceima Cachivera community. This community opened to visitors following the motivation of its captain Sergio Gutierrez, which is a professional tourist guide formed at SENA, the national institute of learning.
Sergio cordially welcomes visitors who want to get to know the treasures of the jungle. After an introduction about the characteristics of the territory and the community, he leads the expeditions that last an average of two hours.
There are different stops during the hike, the first one is the raudal of Cachivera Tucunare, a waterfall. Then you will continue towards a series of caves and rocky formations, sacred for the Cubeos, such as the Tiger Cave or the Toad Cave, where the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock is usually observed.
Finally, there is Cerro Flecha, a hill with a spectacular 360 view of the jungle. It is also a sacred place for the Cubeos, since this hill was the place from which its god Cubay prayed over the region.
Cerro Guacamayas
Cerro Guacamayas is another jungle viewpoint. To reach its summit you must take a path through swamps and through the Chagras, or small spaces for the sustenance of the indigenous communities, where they plant and establish a series of relationships with the land.
As the trail is rough, you should bring along food and drinks, swamp boots, long-sleeved shirts, and insect repellent. The entire route is flat until you reach the hill, a gigantic rock that encloses an ecosystem in which characteristics shrubs and vegetation grow.
You may climb up the rock with the help of a harness, or if you feel confident, you can reach it by your own. Once you reach the top you will find the entire Amazon rainforest at your feet.
Once you descend from the viewpoint, you will reach the Caño Sangre, a natural “jacuzzi” of terracotta color, fruit of the vegetation that grows at the bottom of the pipe.
River Trips
Before continue, I must tell you that for the indigenous people, the Vaupes River is sacred. For them, under the waters of the river resides the world of the gods. It is a place where the ancestral cycle of the anaconda takes place.
The anaconda gives identity to the community, and plays a central role in their mythology and genesis of their people. We recommend you to watch the documentary El Sendero de la Anaconda to better understand the sacred relationship that the indigenous people established with the river. It is available on Netflix.
You can visit several streams and pipes that connect with the Vaupes River. Among them, one of the closest is the Raudal Tatu Chachivera, a ravine feared for its strength.
It is important to be accompanied by a local guide who knows very well how to overcome these ravines. Generally, the indigenous people of the Trubon community are in charge of guiding you through this part of the Vaupes River.
Another place, very close to Mitu, is the Cucura bathing place, where the huge stones form natural pools.
Learning about different cultures
The most interesting thing about Mitú is that it is possible to share with some communities their traditions, observe their costumes and learn about their customs. You will be received in a Maloca, in the famous festivities of Yuruparí, where you will be invited along with the children to participate in a traditional dance.
Jerico Community
Here you can interact with the culture and tradition of the Tatuyo people. This community is located two hours from Mitu. There you will be welcomed by the wise man of this community called Agustin Munoz.
The main attraction is the colorful Maloca of the community. There you will enjoy an opiparous banquet prepared in the traditional way with typical foods such as cassava, fish muquiado, fish with caruru, and copoazu and azai juices. Everyone can help themselves to the food they want.
Afterwards there will be a protection ritual, where with a reddish powder called carayuru, the women will paint your face with a set of lines on your forehead and cheeks.
Mambe is also offered to the attendees. It is a powder obtained by toasting, grinding, and sifting the coca leaf, which is mixed with ashes from a cecropia tree. Don Agustin will explain to you the benefits of consuming this preparation.
Beware that the Mambe is a stimulant that should only be chewed, so don’t eat it!
Souvenirs
The handicrafts of Vaupes are beautiful. The indigenous people capture their culture and tradition in these unique handicrafts. You can find clay pots polished with river stones, plates, blue clay vessels with traditional engravings, trays, and baskets handwoven with vegetable fibers, vases, etc. All worked in fibers such as cumare or guarumo, clay and wood.
These handicrafts greatly represent the Colombian Amazon and are a source of pride for the inhabitants of Vaupes.
Recommendations for your visit
- Take yellow fever and tetanus vaccines before arrival.
- Do not forget the mosquito repellent, it is highly recommended.
- Rubber boots, raincoat, long-sleeved shirts, sunscreen.
- Leave no trace.
If you want to plan your trip to Colombia do not hesitate to contact us, visit our Plan your trip page!
References
- Colombia Travel
- SINCHI – Institute of Scientific Reseach of the Amazon.
- Satena
About the author
Sara Colmenares
The current director of Sula. Doctor in Biological Sciences. Her main interests are to explore and understand the organism–environment interactions, taking advantage of emerging knowledge for the management and conservation of species and ecosystem services. She is currently working as a consultant in functional ecology, ecosystem services, and conservation projects in Colombia related to ecotourism and birdwatching.
